Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

We put on my "bolt-on" hks2530 turbo and, well, the stock lines don't match up. Because we would have needed a fitting for the closest water line and a T-piece for the one around the back we just cut the metal lines and attached some 5/16" fuel hose which fitted nice and tight. The braided oil line was just looped back around to the block as well.

We think these should be alright but thought it might be wise to double check with people in the know so i don't stuff up my new turbo :D

Turbolines3.JPG

Turbolines4.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33267-do-these-turbo-lines-look-ok/
Share on other sites

I think you might find the fuel hoses will not cope with the heat that will come from the turbo.

It should be ok for a sort run up to auto one to get better (heat resistant) hoses.

Just my 2c worth of advice

Mal

Yeah, what Stagea man said :D I had to do something very similar when fitting my new turbo, and the heat of the turbo (and don't forget that two of those lines carry engine oil...) meant that I went for lines meant for an oil cooler. It's reinforced and is designed for exactly what it'll be used for!

Thats a fair bit below the turbo there though.. and its about the same distance to other essential (plastic covered) wiring to the O2 sensor and things.. and also the rubber heater water lines run past the back of the engine, at a similar distance with no dramas. So I think it would be ok, but I'd be keeping a close eye on it.

I would still most definitely be erring on the side of caution - a burst line spraying oil onto the turbo and exhaust manifolding can't be good :D

My main concern would be using fuel line - yes, fuel line sits in some pretty warm spots too, but fuel tends to be far cooler than engine oil, so the design tolerances may not have accounted for high temperatures *inside* the line. I may be completely wrong and fuel line could well be perfectly safe in this application, but unless you're 100% certain, IMHO it's not worth the risk for a combined total of maybe $30 worth of replacement hose.

Just read back over that and tiredness + a few drinks mean that it might come across as aggressive. It's not meant to be, just trying to reinforce the importance of making sure the oil/water supply systems are not skimped on :D Don't want you guys thinking I'm being nasty, lol

Thanks for the help guys. The rubber hoses will carry water, not oil (that's what the braided hose and bottom return line are). I wasn't worried about the heat of the liquid travelling through the hose because at the other end of the closest hose in the top picture there is a rubber hose from factory. I was just worried about heat from the manifold and turbo, but as someone said, there are other rubber and plastic hoses that travel just as close.

edit: oh and that very bottom hose is the same as the stock return pipe so i assumed the rubber section in that would be alright.

We put on my "bolt-on" hks2530 turbo and, well, the stock lines don't match up. Because we would have needed a fitting for the closest water line and a T-piece for the one around the back we just cut the metal lines and attached some 5/16" fuel hose which fitted nice and tight. The braided oil line was just looped back around to the block as well.

We think these should be alright but thought it might be wise to double check with people in the know so i don't stuff up my new turbo :D

Turbolines3.JPG  

Turbolines4.JPG

Get some high temp hose from pirtek just to be sure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
    • I would say no, why, because my daughter, who also lives in Goulburn, hasn't recommended us going there Pity, as we miss all the German joints around in Sydney, actually, the restaurants are the only thing I really miss about Sydney, and a special mention to Ishibanboshi at Bondi Junction, their Kara-age Don is heart cloggingly deliciousness (always added a special boiled egg...or 2) 😋 
×
×
  • Create New...