Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Help Re: Fitting Certain Rims

R-SPEC
 Share

Recommended Posts

R-SPEC Grand Master

R-SPEC

Posted
Posted

evening,

i've bought some 2nd hand rims mainly coz they were dirt cheap and are jap

i havent tried on the rears but i've tried the fronts and they do not clear the calipers :P

just wondering (btw this is for the r34 gt-t experts) what size spacers would i need to use?

rim size on the fronts is 18x8 +42

thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333429-need-help-re-fitting-certain-rims/
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
Transpass Rookie

Transpass

Posted
Posted

you can check the clearance yourself - measure the distance between the brake disc flange and the caliper horizontally and do the same at your wheel/rim.

How to do:

...with a right angled square.

-> e.g. http://www.akcol.com/modules.php?name=Inde...newlang=english

Transpass Rookie

Transpass

Posted
Posted (edited)

You can't say "this wheel dimension/offset will fit with a xx mm spacer" - has a lot to do with wheel design. Offset is measured at the wheel center line (distance between this line and the flange). E.g. a deep dish wheel (racing type) comes with an offset of +5 measured at the wheel center line (WCL), means there's only 5mm between the brake disc/wheel flange and WCL. Now, if the wheel has a flat shape, it should be impossible to fit a big caliper, if it has a round shape or bulge, then there's (often) enough room.

Too much spacer isn't any good for the bearings or braking capability.

Edit: 10mm spacers should be ok :D just wanted to explain for people reading this thread!

Edited by Transpass

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...