Jump to content
SAU Community

notchy gearbox at startup ??

Gizmo73
 Share

Recommended Posts

Gizmo73 Proficient

Gizmo73

Posted
Posted

Hey All..

When the car is started cold (as in first thing in the morning, on the way home from work), the first few changes from 1st to 2nd crunch a tiny bit...

However it always disappears after about 3-4 mins...

Anything to worry about ?? Regaular occurance ??

:confused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33350-notchy-gearbox-at-startup/
Share on other sites
benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted
When did you last change your gear oil?

You might need to change it with better quality oil. I have a rough gearbox too, i'm thinking of buying the Redline stuff to put in my gearbox. Should cure the roughness.

12mths ago I changed my oil and put in the Redline Shockproof oil ($100) and it made a massive difference, 500% better.

Its starting to get alittle rough again now so I might need to do it again.

unwritten law Proficient

unwritten law

Posted
Posted

mine is notchy when cold too... my gearbox has been rebuilt apparently, but i think its on its way out again... i tend to grind when giving it heaps... i suppose there is no use in having teeth if ur not gonna clean em hehehe....

will give the redline stuff ago soon, hopefully that makes a difference

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted

Me?

I think you might have the wrong Ben. Still got a standard turbo (and will for alot longer, plenty more mods to get power out of the old girl yet) and no issues with my boost controller

:wassup:

silver33 Contributor

silver33

Posted
Posted

I have been told that the Redline Shockproof stuff is good initially but could prematurely ruin a perfectly good gearbox. It's made for racing conditions. Cars used in racing conditions usually get their gearbox's rebuilt after a race. Thus using it in a daily driven vehicle may prematurely destroy the gearbox.

Don't know how true this is, but it's something to be weary of.

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted
I have been told that the Redline Shockproof stuff is good initially but could prematurely ruin a perfectly good gearbox. It's made for racing conditions. Cars used in racing conditions usually get their gearbox's rebuilt after a race. Thus using it in a daily driven vehicle may prematurely destroy the gearbox.  

Don't know how true this is, but it's something to be weary of.

Did you get told any reason why it would prematurely wear out your gearbox? Knowing what I do about gearboxes and oils, I can't really see anything about Redline that would cause this. Redline is designed to reduce the shock loading between the gears, so if anything it should extend your gearbox's life no matter what the conditions.

But if you have a source, I'd be happy to see the reasons.

(B1) MR_fanny Grand Master

(B1) MR_fanny

Posted
Posted

my gearbox crunches in 2nd and 3rd and 5th....thats rite 5th when i give it stick!! i have changed my oil too with the castrol stuff and noticed no difference. mechanic said it was the actuall ball at the end of the gearstick shaft thats rooted.....savin up for a quick shift kit now.:worship:

Busky2k Veteran

Busky2k

Posted
Posted

JimX, altho I cannot find the webpage anymore, I read an oil analysis comparison of Mobil 1 and Redline Shookproof in an S2000 gearbox. The Redline had a zillion times more wear metal in it compared to the Mobil 1 for the same length oil change intervals...

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted
JimX, altho I cannot find the webpage anymore, I read an oil analysis comparison of Mobil 1 and Redline Shookproof in an S2000 gearbox. The Redline had a zillion times more wear metal in it compared to the Mobil 1 for the same length oil change intervals...

You can't find it? I did a Google on "s2000 redline mobil" and it was the first result :worship:

Well it seems you were right. This is about diffs and not boxes but the same principle applies. I would still be interested to know why this happens though. I think I'll be dumping my Redline oil in the near future and getting some Mobil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...