Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All..

When the car is started cold (as in first thing in the morning, on the way home from work), the first few changes from 1st to 2nd crunch a tiny bit...

However it always disappears after about 3-4 mins...

Anything to worry about ?? Regaular occurance ??

:confused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33350-notchy-gearbox-at-startup/
Share on other sites

When did you last change your gear oil?

You might need to change it with better quality oil. I have a rough gearbox too, i'm thinking of buying the Redline stuff to put in my gearbox. Should cure the roughness.

12mths ago I changed my oil and put in the Redline Shockproof oil ($100) and it made a massive difference, 500% better.

Its starting to get alittle rough again now so I might need to do it again.

mine is notchy when cold too... my gearbox has been rebuilt apparently, but i think its on its way out again... i tend to grind when giving it heaps... i suppose there is no use in having teeth if ur not gonna clean em hehehe....

will give the redline stuff ago soon, hopefully that makes a difference

Me?

I think you might have the wrong Ben. Still got a standard turbo (and will for alot longer, plenty more mods to get power out of the old girl yet) and no issues with my boost controller

:wassup:

I have been told that the Redline Shockproof stuff is good initially but could prematurely ruin a perfectly good gearbox. It's made for racing conditions. Cars used in racing conditions usually get their gearbox's rebuilt after a race. Thus using it in a daily driven vehicle may prematurely destroy the gearbox.

Don't know how true this is, but it's something to be weary of.

I have been told that the Redline Shockproof stuff is good initially but could prematurely ruin a perfectly good gearbox. It's made for racing conditions. Cars used in racing conditions usually get their gearbox's rebuilt after a race. Thus using it in a daily driven vehicle may prematurely destroy the gearbox.  

Don't know how true this is, but it's something to be weary of.

Did you get told any reason why it would prematurely wear out your gearbox? Knowing what I do about gearboxes and oils, I can't really see anything about Redline that would cause this. Redline is designed to reduce the shock loading between the gears, so if anything it should extend your gearbox's life no matter what the conditions.

But if you have a source, I'd be happy to see the reasons.

my gearbox crunches in 2nd and 3rd and 5th....thats rite 5th when i give it stick!! i have changed my oil too with the castrol stuff and noticed no difference. mechanic said it was the actuall ball at the end of the gearstick shaft thats rooted.....savin up for a quick shift kit now.:worship:

JimX, altho I cannot find the webpage anymore, I read an oil analysis comparison of Mobil 1 and Redline Shookproof in an S2000 gearbox. The Redline had a zillion times more wear metal in it compared to the Mobil 1 for the same length oil change intervals...

JimX, altho I cannot find the webpage anymore, I read an oil analysis comparison of Mobil 1 and Redline Shookproof in an S2000 gearbox. The Redline had a zillion times more wear metal in it compared to the Mobil 1 for the same length oil change intervals...

You can't find it? I did a Google on "s2000 redline mobil" and it was the first result :worship:

Well it seems you were right. This is about diffs and not boxes but the same principle applies. I would still be interested to know why this happens though. I think I'll be dumping my Redline oil in the near future and getting some Mobil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...