Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

WTF? RB25DET's are factory 9:1 comp ratio

You are gaining nothing by putting RB26 gear in your RB25 block. Unless you have a spare crank lying around that you need to use. The stroke is slightly more but the extra 100cc is not going to do FA for torque or power.

The reason I will use rb26 crank is because I have the block and enginehead but no crank,rods or pistons. So instead of buy an rb25 crank and then mount a crank collar on it would cost almost as much as an longnose rb26 crank. If 100cc doesn´t do anything then I wonder why so many high performance gt-rs from japan is stroked to 2,7?

Almost every aftermarkets pistons for rb26 is 8.5:1 but If the rb25 head is smaller cc maybe it is possible to get 9,0:1 then :)

^ umm but how do you have a RB25 now, without any innards?

It's not even 100c, its like 60 or something.

9:1 will be fine, pretty standard for anyone rebuilding in this day an age considering fuel advancements over the past 10 years+

Also just use GTR rods, they are fine for over 400rwkw and less than half the price of eagles

^ umm but how do you have a RB25 now, without any innards?

It's not even 100c, its like 60 or something.

9:1 will be fine, pretty standard for anyone rebuilding in this day an age considering fuel advancements over the past 10 years+

Also just use GTR rods, they are fine for over 400rwkw and less than half the price of eagles

I bought a head cheap for about 1 year ago. The I found a block now to. So I will use them to build a complete engine of. A std rb25det cost about 2300Aud here and Im gonna change so much anyway so I think this would be the best way to go :)

You can buy a RB25 bottom end for next to nothing my friend... the head is the most expensive part.

Then just GTR rods ontop of that and you are set. Would be less than $1000 AUD easily. Not sure there you get 2300 from when you already have the top end :)

Beats buying a new RB26 crank IMO, unless you know the RB26 crank you are getting is fine but the cost to check, and if it needs repairing then its almost neutral.

You can buy a RB25 bottom end for next to nothing my friend... the head is the most expensive part.

Then just GTR rods ontop of that and you are set. Would be less than $1000 AUD easily. Not sure there you get 2300 from when you already have the top end :)

Beats buying a new RB26 crank IMO, unless you know the RB26 crank you are getting is fine but the cost to check, and if it needs repairing then its almost neutral.

Im from Sweden and It´s alot more expensive with parts here. I have searched for a while for a bottom but didn´t find someting we don´t have so many parts here. So I had to order the block from England. I want the long oilpumpdrive to so I think the rb26 crank would be fine.

Edited by Turbo_Knuff
Im from Sweden and It´s alot more expensive with parts here. I have searched for a while for a bottom but didn´t find someting we don´t have so many parts here. So I had to order the block from England. I want the long oilpumpdrive to so I think the rb26 crank would be fine.

The collar can be purchased and fitted for about $200 total. Being in Sweden might make things hard but there's always international shipping

Don't think that getting a second hand rb26 long nose crank is the best solution, because IMO it's not.

Often times on a second hand crank you will see where the oil pump drive has rounded away on the edges of the flat even on the long nose. A collar with international shipping will be under $100AU easily, and then you know the drive is 100% OK after fitting.

Edited by James_03
DO NOT shave the head more than just a surface because it'll stuff up your cam timing and possibly make the timing belt go slack.

Just order some custom 9.2:1 pistons. You won't be disappointed!

Sorry but that's the biggest load of shit I have ever heard. You aren't going to take enough off a cylinder head to have that much of an effect on the timing belt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mixing things up - installed some leather recaros to match the leather seat covered rear seats. Interior looks pretty schmick now except for some slight wear on the steering wheel which I will monitor and address if it becomes worse or actually noticeable!  
    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
×
×
  • Create New...