Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

WTF? RB25DET's are factory 9:1 comp ratio

You are gaining nothing by putting RB26 gear in your RB25 block. Unless you have a spare crank lying around that you need to use. The stroke is slightly more but the extra 100cc is not going to do FA for torque or power.

The reason I will use rb26 crank is because I have the block and enginehead but no crank,rods or pistons. So instead of buy an rb25 crank and then mount a crank collar on it would cost almost as much as an longnose rb26 crank. If 100cc doesn´t do anything then I wonder why so many high performance gt-rs from japan is stroked to 2,7?

Almost every aftermarkets pistons for rb26 is 8.5:1 but If the rb25 head is smaller cc maybe it is possible to get 9,0:1 then :)

^ umm but how do you have a RB25 now, without any innards?

It's not even 100c, its like 60 or something.

9:1 will be fine, pretty standard for anyone rebuilding in this day an age considering fuel advancements over the past 10 years+

Also just use GTR rods, they are fine for over 400rwkw and less than half the price of eagles

^ umm but how do you have a RB25 now, without any innards?

It's not even 100c, its like 60 or something.

9:1 will be fine, pretty standard for anyone rebuilding in this day an age considering fuel advancements over the past 10 years+

Also just use GTR rods, they are fine for over 400rwkw and less than half the price of eagles

I bought a head cheap for about 1 year ago. The I found a block now to. So I will use them to build a complete engine of. A std rb25det cost about 2300Aud here and Im gonna change so much anyway so I think this would be the best way to go :)

You can buy a RB25 bottom end for next to nothing my friend... the head is the most expensive part.

Then just GTR rods ontop of that and you are set. Would be less than $1000 AUD easily. Not sure there you get 2300 from when you already have the top end :)

Beats buying a new RB26 crank IMO, unless you know the RB26 crank you are getting is fine but the cost to check, and if it needs repairing then its almost neutral.

You can buy a RB25 bottom end for next to nothing my friend... the head is the most expensive part.

Then just GTR rods ontop of that and you are set. Would be less than $1000 AUD easily. Not sure there you get 2300 from when you already have the top end :)

Beats buying a new RB26 crank IMO, unless you know the RB26 crank you are getting is fine but the cost to check, and if it needs repairing then its almost neutral.

Im from Sweden and It´s alot more expensive with parts here. I have searched for a while for a bottom but didn´t find someting we don´t have so many parts here. So I had to order the block from England. I want the long oilpumpdrive to so I think the rb26 crank would be fine.

Edited by Turbo_Knuff
Im from Sweden and It´s alot more expensive with parts here. I have searched for a while for a bottom but didn´t find someting we don´t have so many parts here. So I had to order the block from England. I want the long oilpumpdrive to so I think the rb26 crank would be fine.

The collar can be purchased and fitted for about $200 total. Being in Sweden might make things hard but there's always international shipping

Don't think that getting a second hand rb26 long nose crank is the best solution, because IMO it's not.

Often times on a second hand crank you will see where the oil pump drive has rounded away on the edges of the flat even on the long nose. A collar with international shipping will be under $100AU easily, and then you know the drive is 100% OK after fitting.

Edited by James_03
DO NOT shave the head more than just a surface because it'll stuff up your cam timing and possibly make the timing belt go slack.

Just order some custom 9.2:1 pistons. You won't be disappointed!

Sorry but that's the biggest load of shit I have ever heard. You aren't going to take enough off a cylinder head to have that much of an effect on the timing belt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...