Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the reply. where exactly should I mount the whide band sensor? 36" from the exhaust lands on the down pipe.

I'm planning on buying a titanium down pipe. would it be a good idea to install the bung on the titanium down pipe?

Ti dump pipe? Why?

I just checked, as I have a Ti bung here. It isn't the correct thread though, too small.

 

Ti dump pipe? Why? 

 

I just checked, as I have a Ti bung here. It isn't the correct thread though, too small. 

Down pipe, mate. I think they're called "front pipes" in planet Oz. As for dump pipes, I have my eyes in the Tomei products. moreover, I'm interested in the AEM non weld bung now that I know something like that exist.

  • 2 weeks later...

Can you guys help me figure out the location and degree of the bung on the following ARC pipe?

According to YAJ, it's a 3" Ti de-cat pipe but I don't know enough of the BNR32's exhaust anatomy to figure out if the bung will be in the correct location/position:

yasu32gtr2000-img600x450-1357210488kipo1

yasu32gtr2000-img600x450-1357210487cfpym

The pipe flanges are in different positions from each other but that is normal according to the many other pictures I've seen of that particular pipe.

The only concern I have is if the bung is facing 10degrees (or more) UP in order to meet the requirements of the BOSCH sensor I have.

10degrees.gif

Is the bung setup to allow my sensor to be at 10degrees?

  • 3 weeks later...

So, I decided to use the front pipes as the install point:

20131006_130737.jpg%255BUNSET%255D.jpg%255BUNSET%255D.jpg

That solved that problem but now I don't know why my AEM gauge does not activate. Is there an on/off switch...?

I found a solid ground and used the 12V from an 'accessory' wire that connects to the radio. I tried different wires, check with a multimeter but still couldn't get the gauge to turn on. I eventually hooked up my gauge to the car battery to see if the 12Vs from that would activate it...

%255BUNSET%255D.jpg%255BUNSET%255D.jpg

Is my gauge broken?

So, I finally got my AEM installed. Turns out that the solder that I had to splice the gauge directly into the corresponding wires. I also had to shave the wires down a little more because the stock solder tips were too thick for proper connection.

BIG thanks for negativecamber so helping me figure it out.

My gauge is working now but what sort of numbers should I be looking for? I went driving for about 15 minutes and the gaue went all over the place: 13.5 to 16.0 (for appx 3-4 seconds)...

(BTW, I've been suspecting that my Mine's VX-ROM needs another tune)

Went all over the place when at a constant RPM/load? Or just while driving normally (e.g fluctuating load and revs?)

At cruise it will fluctuate a bit but should be fairly constant, This also depends on what computer is in the car

If just driving around normally the gauge will jump around. If you put your foot down you should see the gauge start dropping, usually till it hits about 11-12:1 if it is a tuned computer, if its stock ECU then this number could be lower

If you are getting above 12:1 on full load at high RPM then it may be a bit to lean and need a retune

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...