Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the reply. where exactly should I mount the whide band sensor? 36" from the exhaust lands on the down pipe.

I'm planning on buying a titanium down pipe. would it be a good idea to install the bung on the titanium down pipe?

Ti dump pipe? Why?

I just checked, as I have a Ti bung here. It isn't the correct thread though, too small.

 

Ti dump pipe? Why? 

 

I just checked, as I have a Ti bung here. It isn't the correct thread though, too small. 

Down pipe, mate. I think they're called "front pipes" in planet Oz. As for dump pipes, I have my eyes in the Tomei products. moreover, I'm interested in the AEM non weld bung now that I know something like that exist.

  • 2 weeks later...

Can you guys help me figure out the location and degree of the bung on the following ARC pipe?

According to YAJ, it's a 3" Ti de-cat pipe but I don't know enough of the BNR32's exhaust anatomy to figure out if the bung will be in the correct location/position:

yasu32gtr2000-img600x450-1357210488kipo1

yasu32gtr2000-img600x450-1357210487cfpym

The pipe flanges are in different positions from each other but that is normal according to the many other pictures I've seen of that particular pipe.

The only concern I have is if the bung is facing 10degrees (or more) UP in order to meet the requirements of the BOSCH sensor I have.

10degrees.gif

Is the bung setup to allow my sensor to be at 10degrees?

  • 3 weeks later...

So, I decided to use the front pipes as the install point:

20131006_130737.jpg%255BUNSET%255D.jpg%255BUNSET%255D.jpg

That solved that problem but now I don't know why my AEM gauge does not activate. Is there an on/off switch...?

I found a solid ground and used the 12V from an 'accessory' wire that connects to the radio. I tried different wires, check with a multimeter but still couldn't get the gauge to turn on. I eventually hooked up my gauge to the car battery to see if the 12Vs from that would activate it...

%255BUNSET%255D.jpg%255BUNSET%255D.jpg

Is my gauge broken?

So, I finally got my AEM installed. Turns out that the solder that I had to splice the gauge directly into the corresponding wires. I also had to shave the wires down a little more because the stock solder tips were too thick for proper connection.

BIG thanks for negativecamber so helping me figure it out.

My gauge is working now but what sort of numbers should I be looking for? I went driving for about 15 minutes and the gaue went all over the place: 13.5 to 16.0 (for appx 3-4 seconds)...

(BTW, I've been suspecting that my Mine's VX-ROM needs another tune)

Went all over the place when at a constant RPM/load? Or just while driving normally (e.g fluctuating load and revs?)

At cruise it will fluctuate a bit but should be fairly constant, This also depends on what computer is in the car

If just driving around normally the gauge will jump around. If you put your foot down you should see the gauge start dropping, usually till it hits about 11-12:1 if it is a tuned computer, if its stock ECU then this number could be lower

If you are getting above 12:1 on full load at high RPM then it may be a bit to lean and need a retune

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
    • Hmmm, interesting. Makes me wonder whether there is bias as well. It's the cheapest fuel, so it is used for all kinds of ill-maintained shitboxes which are bound to have issues regardless. Nicer cars tend to require higher octane rated fuel and can't use it anyway. FWIW, the official NSW E10 facts page is decent. 
×
×
  • Create New...