Jump to content
SAU Community

Japanese Tyres - Really Noisy Compound!

PetroDola
 Share

Recommended Posts

PetroDola Proficient

PetroDola

Posted
Posted

My NM35 Stag was only imported to melbs in november 09 so it hasnt even been in country a year.

It came with 17 x 235 x 45 tyres branded "Autogaurd" on the stocky 5 spoke 17 nissan rims ,

They work fine. just damn noisy on aussie roads with a constant whining that sounds like a jet plane.

Anyone else get this issue with Jap tyres ?

Is it a compound thing?

Anyway ..anyone suggest a reasonably priced tyre for the stag in the 17inch flavour?

Should i change rim size to the 18's or the 19's and is it true with NM35 stags (hicas inparticular) they perform worse with 18's and throw out the suspension?

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

old tyres are often noisy because the rubber has gone hard. and you should replace the tyres in this case. the wheel choice won't affect noise much - if anything a lower profile tyre would give you more though.

Bullet32 Veteran

Bullet32

Posted
Posted
They work fine. just damn noisy on aussie roads with a constant whining that sounds like a jet plane.

Anyone else get this issue with Jap tyres ?

Is it a compound thing?

old tyres are often noisy because the rubber has gone hard. and you should replace the tyres in this case. the wheel choice won't affect noise much - if anything a lower profile tyre would give you more though.

Tyre noise is caused by the tread design, not the compound, also if the tyres are very noisey it probably means that they are unevenly worn.

There are a number of reasons that tyres can become noisey but the most common is uneven tyre wear. Have a close look at the tread blocks, if they have a slight 'lip' on one edge then they need to be rotated to wear them flat again.

  • 3 weeks later...
samuri Rising Star

samuri

Posted
Posted
are they actually japanese tyres? go back to whoever complied it and remind them they have to fit new tyres at compliance by law :thumbsup:

I dont think that is quite right Duncan.

Tyres need to have a D.O.T marking on them to meet compliance. No DOT marking no compliance. I brought my car from Japan with tyres bought in Japan , and queried qld transport before arriving to detrmine what was required.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted
I dont think that is quite right Duncan.

Tyres need to have a D.O.T marking on them to meet compliance. No DOT marking no compliance. I brought my car from Japan with tyres bought in Japan , and queried qld transport before arriving to detrmine what was required.

not my understanding....AFAIK sevs always requires new tyres. there may be some other imports like rally use, pre 88 or personal imports where they only have to be "roadworthy" were DOT would be OK.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bennym35
      New guy

      By Bennym35 · Posted

      The roof is wrapped
    • Duncan
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Duncan · Posted

      This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
×
×
  • Create New...