Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Catch Can (oil/air Separator) For Rb30dett In R32 Gtr

dorifticon

By dorifticon,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted
$1800 for injectors is a little insane..

Some of the Honda guys have been having trouble with these injectors on idle.

Honda guys ID2000 idle

I'm at work now so I can't find it but there's a video somewhere of ID's working as dropins for a Honda

It's not a perfect comparison though, it's sort of like saying GTR's have shit oil pumps and I have a supra so the supra will need an aftermarket billet oil pump etc. I'd be trying to find someone with a GTR who is having dramas instead of a Honda person.

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

The old oil compatibilty issue with E85.

From my understanding the "ester" base in the 300V oils is a big no no. Something to do with it breaking down with the alcohol in the ethanol fuels.

Some people say its fine... other people say it wont work... then you have clowns up at Autobarn saying that "no oil in Australia will tolerate E85.... Your car is going to turn into a bucket of mush as soon as you start running that crap"

When my car gets tuned I want to get a oil analysis done with Motul 300V 15W-50 (what I have always run in my GTR) and put this stupid yes, no, maybe, what if bullshit to bed!

Marko R1 Grand Master

Marko R1

Posted
Posted
$1800 for injectors is a little insane..

Some of the Honda guys have been having trouble with these injectors on idle.

Honda guys ID2000 idle

indy blues are a fraction of that price :D

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted
indy blues are a fraction of that price :D

If you're shopping by price, there's capable injectors for even as low as $60ea, but shopping by price means there will be trade offs in the product quality/performance etc

Marko R1 Grand Master

Marko R1

Posted
Posted
If you're shopping by price, there's capable injectors for even as low as $60ea, but shopping by price means there will be trade offs in the product quality/performance etc

to an extent yes, i agree

i still like my kelford cams & garrett turbos though :D

XRATED Veteran

XRATED

Posted
Posted

I'm a huge fan of Injector Dynamics injectors. I have a set of ID2000's for my GTR and ID1000's for the missus gts-t. We did the ID2000 drop in test ourselves... stock civic, hondata and ID2000's- idled and drove like a standard car. we even had the receptionist drive it around for a week! nearly stock fuel consumption....

2000cc injectors in a stock honda civic!!!!!

Great spray pattern too.

. . . . at the end of the day you do get what you pay for.

Cheers

Justin

noone Experienced

noone

Posted
Posted

Am I correct that the ID2000 being high impedance doesnt use the resistor pack???

Bit of a noob question but how do you achieve this? custom harness ?just unplug ? bridging plug?

What computer if you dont mind answering?

Am running a pfc and am very interested in the ID injectors had thought ID1000 would be big enough to ensure overheads even on E85 (which isnt available to me , yet)

  • 3 weeks later...
BoostdR Mentor

BoostdR

Posted
Posted (edited)

I decided to check my Mines baffle plates. I have found that the cam lob covers were put pack in the std position not where they should be for the Mines setup which is at the back below the baffle opening.

I have moved them and will see how it goes,.,....

Edited by BoostdR
BoostdR Mentor

BoostdR

Posted
Posted (edited)
I decided to check my Mines baffle plates. I have found that the cam lob covers were put pack in the std position not where they should be for the Mines setup which is at the back below the baffle opening.

I have moved them and will see how it goes,.,....

Ok I now have 80% less blow by into my catch can. My guess is when the oil is at the back of the head it gets less aerated and foamed up.

The cam lobe baffles were here

<---- front

: : D D : : :

: : D D : : :

Now they are here

: : : : : D D

: : : : : D D

The original placement makes sense for the std baffle. I would like to see how it went with extra cam lobe baffles at the rear with the standard rocker cover baffles

: : D D : D D

: : D D : D D

My theory is when the oil starts to pool around the lobes it gets aerated and foamed up to the extent it doesn't want to return to the sump easily. The lightness making it travel out the breathers easier. I noted directly after a run when looking at my Provent oil/air separator(screw off lid) that the oil was full of bubbles....not really foamy but very bubbley.

food for thought

Edited by BoostdR
  • 4 weeks later...
Gerg_R31 Mentor

Gerg_R31

Posted
Posted

i know sweet f/a about catch cans, done a search and alot ends up in talking about other stuff or two people pissing and moaning

my questions

i got a rb30de im about to put in (rb26 head, 10.8-242/252 @ 0.050" cams, oil drain, 10.5:1 blah blah blah etc) intentions bit of circut racing here and there

anyways

are catch cans needed for track?

do catch cans need to be a certain size/ hold a certain volume?

internal filters to seperate the air from oil?

filter on top or plumb back?

or a link would be awesome

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • albyz34gt
      R34 N/a And R34 Turbo (gtt) Transmission.. Uh, Problem.

      By albyz34gt · Posted

      @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • RB25inside
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By RB25inside · Posted

      Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • GTSBoy
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...