Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmmm... 100% legal might be difficult (or expensive)... but if you are stealthy enough with your install of the SAFC or whatever it would be incredibly hard for anyone to pin you for it...

On my old car, the e-manage was mounted to the left of the glove box, all that could be accessed there was the USB lead for programming, everything was invisible without pulling the glove box out. The loom ran down behind the stock ECU and was invisibly wired into a Field one-touch harness.

You would have to be super-keen to figure that out as not being standard.

Well when (if? been there 8 weeks now..) I ever get my car back.. I'll see how it's mounted cause I'm paranoid about being done for it :)

Though for peace of mind, engine swap may be the only real answer for legality in vic. Then again, I "heard" that "someone" had managed to get a RB26 up and running on an auto, which was originally a NA. which sounds like an awesome way around the problem but with my extremely limited knowledge I'd imagine some kind of aftermarket management would be needed too :P

God victoria is teh suq. I may just have to cave to the gf's comments about moving somewhere warmer, I.e WA or QLD..

Well when (if? been there 8 weeks now..) I ever get my car back.. I'll see how it's mounted cause I'm paranoid about being done for it :)

Though for peace of mind, engine swap may be the only real answer for legality in vic. Then again, I "heard" that "someone" had managed to get a RB26 up and running on an auto, which was originally a NA. which sounds like an awesome way around the problem but with my extremely limited knowledge I'd imagine some kind of aftermarket management would be needed too :P

God victoria is teh suq. I may just have to cave to the gf's comments about moving somewhere warmer, I.e WA or QLD..

If you're not on P plates, I wouldn't be too worried. Back on P's, I would get pulled over all the time in my fairly stock 33 GTS (just a stupidly loud cat-back exhaust), but only got EPA'd once for too loud and defected a couple of times for balding tires and my favourite 'not enough padding on the steering wheel'.

Got off my P's, converted to a turbo with FMIC, Pod, boost controller, ECU, etc, and never even been pulled over (for that, anyway). Still got the same loud exhaust (although admittedly the turbo did quieten that down a lot, I now just call it 'tastefully loud' :D), and the Turbo+Zorst+FMIC+Pod sounds like an electric leaf blower under there, but I don't drive like a moron and don't attract the attention of the boys in blue.

I even live in Knox... Poptart territory... and the only time I've been pulled over was by him... I'd forgotten to renew my rego which had expired a week earlier, so approx $500 fine plus approx $500 rego... but my fault, I'll take that. Even he didn't look under the bonnet or anything...

lol electric leaf blower is definitely a good way to describe it! My zorst is a bit droney, still need to get around to fitting a mid-muffler or hot dog resonator.. there's no resonator at the moment and it's a 3" mandrel bend system from the turbo-back. the droneyness + leaf blower effect really sounds like i'm gardening some times lol

any more info on rb20 set ups? im guuna start in jan and will post here but want abit more info yet... will be using stock det manifolds and injectors, vg30 or r33 turbo?, remapd comp, fmic, walbro and new exhaust.. sound good?

if it's illegal then don't do it! A P Plater with a turbo = no insurance! Both you and the person you hit will not be happy. Save your money for a GTSt/GTT later, or slowly buy the parts so when you're ready you can do the conversion then.

Hey guys, looking at doing this to my R33 had a few questions on the noise side of things as it is illegal for me to be doing this (P plater) how loud and noticeable is it?

If you're in VIC, I really would recommend not doing this, you'll be in a similar hellhole I've been trying to get it legal, and I'm not even on my P's :cheers:

It may be fun for a little while, but when it bites you in the ass it's not worth it..

Just been looking around for a turbo for a +T conversion and I need clarification on whether a NEO turbo is steel-wheel with ball bearings or not. So many people on the internet saying it is while some argue it's not. So can any of you clarify for me?

Cheers

Edited by mjscar
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
this is what i did.

1. took RB25DE out

2. put RB25DET in

3. slapped a FMIC, walbro fuel pump + fuel reg, microtech LT-12S, highflowed turbo, 3" turbo-back exhaust

4. win.

pics below :)

thats a nice setup right thur, love the front face plenum

how much power are u pushing throught the new det?

  • 1 month later...

Hey guys... Perhaps my situation is a little bit different and unique. What are your thoughts on the practicality of this.

I have a relatively cheap R32 gts-t sedan auto. FMIC, Exhaust, Fuel Pump, Brakes. Car has been really good to us and we've put about 30000km on it. However, yesterday my worst fears were confirmed, a very slight tap tap sound from somewhere deep inside :P. Mechanic feels it is likely one of the gudgeon pins and the engine will keep going for awhile yet.. however I guess it's a wake up call to work out where to go next. The car is my fiances and she wants to keep it auto.

I have a _complete_ (all ancillary, pipework, loom, ecu) RB25de NEO less gearbox out of an R34 which is in really good nick. I had a mind to put it in an old Z or K, however I am not averse to putting it in this R32 instead. If I went down this path I have everything needed already to turbo it (all the RB20det parts) however I am stumped on two problems which are intertwined. It is my understanding that the 33DET ecu will not run a 34 neo. An R34det ECU will be required to run the engine (which I have yet to find) however the R32 ECU is required to run the auto. Is there an easy solution to this?

Given the additional problem of the auto box, would it be a better plan to simply sell this engine and find a complete DET?

Hey guys... Perhaps my situation is a little bit different and unique. What are your thoughts on the practicality of this.

I have a relatively cheap R32 gts-t sedan auto. FMIC, Exhaust, Fuel Pump, Brakes. Car has been really good to us and we've put about 30000km on it. However, yesterday my worst fears were confirmed, a very slight tap tap sound from somewhere deep inside :P. Mechanic feels it is likely one of the gudgeon pins and the engine will keep going for awhile yet.. however I guess it's a wake up call to work out where to go next. The car is my fiances and she wants to keep it auto.

I have a _complete_ (all ancillary, pipework, loom, ecu) RB25de NEO less gearbox out of an R34 which is in really good nick. I had a mind to put it in an old Z or K, however I am not averse to putting it in this R32 instead. If I went down this path I have everything needed already to turbo it (all the RB20det parts) however I am stumped on two problems which are intertwined. It is my understanding that the 33DET ecu will not run a 34 neo. An R34det ECU will be required to run the engine (which I have yet to find) however the R32 ECU is required to run the auto. Is there an easy solution to this?

Given the additional problem of the auto box, would it be a better plan to simply sell this engine and find a complete DET?

Get the R32 Ecu remapped.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...