Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just finished my turbo conversion in the uk and made 310 bhp and 275 lb/ft torque at 9psi would highly recomend this conversion to any one . Thanks for the idear and info 666DAN with out this forum and your info i would still be driving a 200ish bhp A/N and wanting more power . So thanks again ;) i have added a pic of what she look like .

Nice effort!!! Glad you gleaned some useful info from this thread :P It is worth doing and can be done very well as your numbers prove.

thanks guys just what i wanted to hear, i wont want to do any tuning or boosting, just want low boost to give some decent low down torque that the n/a sucks arse at.... so i should definately use the rb25det ecu, and what turbo will best suit the rb25de, the rb20 or rb25 turbo? and will i have to mod my loom at all for the turbo ecu

If you upgrade the injectors, fuel reg and fuel pump to GTSt spec, then the RB25DET ECU will be fine and be plug 'n' play. Bolt on an RB25DET turbo and run at stock actuator pressure and it should all work a treat.

Don't get a smaller turbo as it will spool *way* too early.

  • 3 weeks later...

It's not so much about the power numbers but the response with running an engine spec like this. Run with an intelligent tune there is no reason why it wouldn't/couldn't be reliable, possibly more economical, and with the sort of power that works well on the street.

That said, do we have any dyno sheets of any description?

Here's a graph of my RB25DET running 12psi to achieve 300hp. It's not overpowering, but very useful and responsive. The dip right at the top end is from pulling ignition to combat knock. I've considered that a well thought-out DE-spec engine with similar power numbers would be even nicer, response wise on the street. Perhaps water-meth is the key to making one detonation proof?

post-19642-1175082170.jpg

Edited by Dale FZ1
  • 1 month later...

how hard/difficult would it be to take out the rb25de from an r33 series 2 manual, and put in an rb25det engine and ecu?

what would be needed? would all the wiring match up? im guessing it wont....

any help would be great

thanks :)

It's not so much about the power numbers but the response with running an engine spec like this. Run with an intelligent tune there is no reason why it wouldn't/couldn't be reliable, possibly more economical, and with the sort of power that works well on the street.

That said, do we have any dyno sheets of any description?

Here's a graph of my RB25DET running 12psi to achieve 300hp. It's not overpowering, but very useful and responsive. The dip right at the top end is from pulling ignition to combat knock. I've considered that a well thought-out DE-spec engine with similar power numbers would be even nicer, response wise on the street. Perhaps water-meth is the key to making one detonation proof?

post-19642-1175082170.jpg

This is the dyno sheet for my turboed RB25DE at 9psi

post-25857-1179217398_thumb.jpg

Edited by shawny
This is the dyno sheet for my turboed RB25DE at 9psi

Hi Shawny,

Nice numbers. What mods do you have on your car? I am a new member here, from Canada, and have been having all sorts of troubles. If you can help me with stuff here, I would be grateful. I have an RB25DE with an R33 turbo on it, Trust FMIC, 370cc injectors, Turbosmart BOV and boost controller, with stock RB20DET ECU and Gredy E-Manage). Everything else is stock from my RB20DET days. Since they are new to Canada (how pathetic this is, lol), not many people know how to fix a Skyline, at least not as much as Australia or UK or Japan.

I am having troubles with idling (The TPS I am using is for the RB25DE, but my ECU is RB20DET, and the AAC valve is not working)....the cars sputters and backfires a lot, it hesitates under load and when I give gas. The power just doesnt seem to be there. Right now, after being dynoed once (260 rwhp), it has started sputtering between 2000-4000 rpm range, and the sudden bog/hesitation is still there. I dont know what is going on. What do you suggest? Also, please do share what youve done to your motor to get such impressive numbers. My motor also has the VCT on the intake side, but I dont know how to activate it with a switch.

Thanks,

Judas

Edited by Judasentinel666
  • 1 month later...

i have a neo st8 6 is it easy to fit a turbo on it i have been told

to Find a R33 with a turbo and fit it... (cheeper option)

and to fit a kit (if i can find one) will be around 13,000 bucks

but its hard to find one because the darn company went in 2 relaps and stop making turbos 4 the

neo st8 6

errr have u not read the start of the post dinobones? all u need is just a stock R34 turbo with FMIC/or SMIC with standard turbo computer and the oil lines tapped and water lines etc....then your all good to turbo and do something with the timing and thats it :P no need 13 000

CHeers

Chi

Munib, are u sure the car is not going into rich and retard, i had same sort of prob when i had a piggy backed na ecu, microtech solved my dramas but some sort of timing control is akll u might need

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1994 Series 3 R32 GTR. Freshly built as the perfect weekender. Has many brand new Nissan OEM pieces (some you can no longer source). Last serviced (April 2024) at V Spec Performance, Melbourne, Australia. Feel free to DM me if any questions. Asking price: $190,000 AUD.  Engine RB26DETT Original 05U block Factory R32 crankshaft CP 86.5mm forged pistons Spool forged rods Factory cylinder head – rebuilt Factory valve train Factory camshafts Factory inlet manifold Factory throttle body Garrett dash -5 turbos Custom intercooler piping with Plazmaman clamps Plazamaman 100mm race intercooler Turbosmart BOV Tomei fuel rail 660cc injectors Goodridge 9000 series fuel lines with crimped fittings Stainless steel front pipes Tomei titanium exhaust with stainless steel cat converter Spit fire coils Powder coated rocket covers New Nissan coil pack emblem badge Fully repainted engine bay in Factory Black Refurbished ABS unit New Nissan brake master cylinder New Nissan brake lines New Nissan clutch master cylinder New Nissan washer bottles Custom catch can (powder coated with Goodridge lines) Steering rack rebuilt New Nissan power steering lines New Nissan AC lines A/C compressor refurbished AC condenser refurbished HPI radiator and new thermos fanes New radiator fans NOTE: All nuts, bolts, fixings new or zinc coated Driveline Factory 5 speed gear box rebuilt Xtreme twin plate clutch Stainless steel clutch line Rebuilt factory transfer case Custom one-piece tail shaft Rebuilt factory front diff Rebuilt factory rear diff Suspension HICAS deleted Bilstein dampers IKEYA formular front and rear arms and tie rod ends New bushes wherever possible Whiteline anti roll bars (underneath car only) Brakes Brembo F50 front callipers – 4 piston AP racing 380*32 front rotors, J Hook design Custom floating hat and calliper mounts Brembo 4 piston rear callipers PFC pads Stainless steel braided brake lines Body New Factory Black paint job Ceramic coated exterior panels New Nissan aluminium bonnet (super rare) New Nissan headlights (super rare) New Nissan indicators New Nissan front bar New Nissan front lower lip New Nissan head light and bonnet seals New Nissan windscreen cowling New Nissan wiper arms and wiper blades New aftermarket windscreen New Nissan windscreen seal New Nissan front doors window surrounds and seals New Nissan rear quarter windows (must replace for proper paint job) New Nissan rear window surrounds and seals New Nissan side skirts New Nissan boot badges New Nismo rear bonnet lip New Nissan guard liners Interior New Nissan lens cover over cluster New Nissan gear boot shift New Nissan gear knob New Nismo steering wheel New Nismo floor mats New Billet Handbrake lever New Nissan OEM pocket facia to replace radio Underbody Original stone guard removed and new stone guard coating applied Powder coated front and rear cross members Fuel lines painted to match factory colours Fuel tank removed, cleaned, repainted and refitted All nuts and fixings cleaned, repaired and zinc plated Wheels Rays/Volk racing TE37 18 x 10.5 + 15 in Bronze Yokahama A050 265 x 35 x 18                         
    • @Supernanoyour car has ended up in my hands and I was wondering if there has been any work done to the motor?  
    • Sigh... yeah OEM mount rear battery, very R33, very demure, very mindful.
    • Would need a substantial current draw in the car to make a bunch of sparks. Obvs to now test resistance to ground of the car's B+ lead. If there's a short there, you'll see it. Only likely place for that, as you suspect is alternator. But there is also the possibility that rats have had a chew on some insulation. Shitbox has the battery in the boot, yeah? Plenty of cable to attack.
    • Oh, I thought of that too... I disconnected the battery and hooked up the leads direct to the car without the battery in place. Sparks... I suspect the following: Alternator has decided to kill itself Starter has decided to kill itself I'll recharge the battery, then unplug both, and go from there. The above might take 6 months - however I did buy a Victron 15 AMP trickle charger, apparently it's better than CTEK? Amazon, delivery by tonight. https://www.amazon.com.au/Victron-Battery-Charger-15-Amp-waterproof/dp/B07P4LMMMD?ref_=ast_sto_dp    
×
×
  • Create New...