Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,, does anyone know what cooler this is for??

DSCN5456.jpgDSCN5455.jpg

DSCN5438.jpg

I have a sedan A/T. I'm pretty sure its not a transmission cooler since it should be with the radiator?

So, would this be an Oil cooler?

In images 1/2 it shows the piping going to something that looks like an oil filter ??

thanks...

post-55699-1282621885_thumb.jpg

post-55699-1282621927_thumb.jpg

post-55699-1282621946_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/334078-what-cooler-is-this/
Share on other sites

Yeah deff the trans cooler my gt-8 looks identical.

On the gt-8 it runs into the radiator and then into that oil filter thing then the air to air cooler. Thats getting pretty serious imo.

Is yours a gt-8 or the normal auto?

Its suprises me if the auto trans has the same setup. I wouldnt of thought it would need both.

yeh i have gt-8.. mmm

so that means i dont need to purchase a trans cooler?

because my new rad doesnt come with one.....

You should have 2 coolers - one in the bottom of the radiator and the one pictured above.

The cooler in the radiator works to try to keep the trans oil at a constant temp, ie heats it up in the winter/when cold and cools it in the summer.

Obviously Nissan decided that the GT8 requires a second trans cooler to preserve the transmission.

If your new radiator doesn't come with one, take it to a radiator place that will put the stock "cooler" in the bottom of the new radiator.

Whilst I don't have the CVT (My Stagea has the RE5RO5A - same as 5-speed V35's - but AWD, obviously), when I replaced my radiator I found that in winter I needed the in-tank cooler (noticeable difference in shifts due to the trans ECU's oil temp settings), so had the stock one ripped out and added to my custom radiator.

Edited by iamhe77

You should either get the correct radiator with the oil cooler...... or upgrade your current oil cooler when you replace with that radiator your looking at and drive slowly until everythings warmed up..... probably not the best.

Replacing with the correct radiator is the best option as i have seen a chart that shows the best operating temps for the traction oil and it actually likes being reasonably warm (traction effect goes up with increase in temp within its operating range).

If you go with a bigger air to air i would use a thermostat.... assuming the black round thing is an oil filter and not a thermostat.

You need to find that graph im talking about that will let you know what temp thermostat you would need... cant remember where i found that now.

If you do pull it all apart check that black round thing is a filter as im keen to know myself?

thanks for the info...

so basically keep the stock cooler and rip out the cooler thats in my current radiator... ?? or.. get another cooler??

my radiator is leaking, thats why i'm changing it out.. called up a few wreckers around Sydney and the price for a radiator was around 400... so i felt better off just buying a new one...

austingtir: keen on that graph if you ever find it again...

Edited by moomoolulu

Yep, keep the stock cooler and make sure that your new radiator has a transmission "cooler" in it.

If that means you need to get the original OEM one taken out of the busted radiator and put into the new one, so be it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
×
×
  • Create New...