Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think use if a better indicator than km's travelled - but the seller could BS about boost and useage anyway.

If you can't get them inspected or measure the shaft movement and you are totally restricted to km's then stay under 50,000km. Most manufacturers expect 100,000km on normal useage, however thay can fail before this.

application of use plays a bit part in their life span

ie open mounted, poor filtering, std airbox and std filter, exposed cheap pod filter, no inline oil filter, plain bearing without cool down / idle down cycle

my std turbo is 223,000 kms old and still going well but that's not the be-all and end-all

apparently

there is a 100,000 rebuild "criteria" that nissan used when there was no BOV used

but i have no records of it, and no data to back it up, the rumor is that the service interval changed when they fitted std bovs

A lot of things come in to "play" here .

Before I start you can buy these turbos brand new from Garrett at a Garret price .

Also I asked GCG a while back and at that time they couldn't get new cartridges for these turbos separately .

Now , sometimes turbos come along at a really good price but HKS spec ones usually attract a "HKS tax" .

To be really sure you need to see these turbos with their housings off to check for chipped/bent blades and oil leaks AND chewed out the hot side piston ring register in the bearing housing .

Personally I would ask your local Garret supplier what the rebuild cost is and add that to the price being asked for second hand turbos . Naturally brand new ones are the best option BUT be VERY careful with second hand ones because they can owe you more than brand spanker's ones if they are damaged/badly worn internally .

AKAIK the only unique parts in these GTR spec GTSS/707160-9 turbos is the compressor wheels and the comp housing that's been profiled to match them .

I know its not my money in question here but if it were me I'd be thinking hard about how much effort goes into removing and replacing turbos on an RB26 in situ . Worst case scenario you R/R these ones on your car and they lemon out .

So pull them off again and how much are you out of pocket at this stage ?

You have a right to expect new turbos to function properly and have some comeback if they don't .

You are in a grey area with used ones particularly if you don't know the history of the owner and their cars . In this situation its impossible to know how used up they are and what sort of reliable life they have left .

People buy factory hottie cars to drive them enthusiastically but how much mechanical sympathy and maintenance sense they have is often a big unknown .

Your call , cheers A .

As the guru has stated, many factors.

They might have only done 5,000km's. But if the oil & servicing was pathetic they would be in worse condition than turbos that have done 20,000kms

So its hard to tell without pulling them apart, which is basically rebuilding them anyway.

Unless you know where they have come from, IMO i wouldn't be buying them given the price of Garretts

thanks disco ;) your post are always very helpful!

The turbo are from japan, so getting them checked out is impossible, i have bought about 4-5 different turbos from japan (all second hand) and so far had not had any issue with them. But as you mention changing the turbos on the gtr isn't as easy as the rb25.

Turbo are 3 years old with around 8,000km and some circuit work buyer state it does have some shaft play (which is what im worried about)

ATM price wise its

100,000yen Second Hand GT-SS

90,000yen Second Hand HKS GT2510

Or

188,000yen Brand New HKS GT-SS

160,000yen For O/H HKS GT2510

Edit: what is the price for Garrett GT-SS?

Edited by Kaido_RR

All turbos have shaft play, if they have been sitting around for a while especially as there'd be stuff all oil in them.

People class "shaft play" differently depending on who you talk too.

Why don't you just get Garrett -9s like everyone else?

By the time you get GT-SS's freighted, plus whatever tax you'll most likely get stung with...

And 2510's are older design as well. Not a bad turbo but peak around 280rwkw give/take. Almost like steel wheel stockers.

think you need to get a price on the garrett ones locally. as mentioned, you will get stung with duty and GST if your turbos are over $1000, have to lodge a SAC (self assessed clearance), Postal FID (Full import Declaration) or go to a broker - denpending on how they are posted/ shipped. then there are also the tarriff rates to consider. you could pay about $200 - $250 on top.

application of use plays a bit part in their life span

ie open mounted, poor filtering, std airbox and std filter, exposed cheap pod filter, no inline oil filter, plain bearing without cool down / idle down cycle

my std turbo is 223,000 kms old and still going well but that's not the be-all and end-all

apparently

there is a 100,000 rebuild "criteria" that nissan used when there was no BOV used

but i have no records of it, and no data to back it up, the rumor is that the service interval changed when they fitted std bovs

bit off topic sorry, but better than starting a new thread, if im in the wrong just ignore me.

you say standard airbox is detrimental to the turbo life? or is that only in the case of a standard filter to? i use the box with a good qual filter, better? or is a good qual pod in order to help the turbo life?

i would never buy a 2nd pair of GTR turbo's, i have seen so many fail not longer after install. The little you save on secondies is wasted on buying the 2nd set and the removal refitting costs.

bit off topic sorry, but better than starting a new thread, if im in the wrong just ignore me.

you say standard airbox is detrimental to the turbo life? or is that only in the case of a standard filter to? i use the box with a good qual filter, better? or is a good qual pod in order to help the turbo life?

what i mean here is that with the std airbox most users run decent panel filters which dont let in dirt

people who run a pod usually leave it open and exposed and this allows dirt to get into the air intake

once you get a spec of dirt into the compressor housing and it gets in the bearings, goodbye

if they are not f**ked. when you get them, get a m4 bolt and screw it in the oil inlet. with pliers pull out the restrictor/bearing locator and clean it out. also carby clean the turbo through the oil inlet. then bang the locator back in.

then you are sure not to have a failure due to burnt oil blocking up the internals. (99%) of bb failures

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...