Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Same problem here in an R32 GTR - clunks from the rear when driving harshly, so I put it over the pit and it has a ridiculous amount of play which we isolated to the rear diff. Next, is to remove the centre and get it rebuilt at a shop.

On that does anyone know a good place to go for a diff centre rebuild in Perth?

Do report back what they did to fix it and the cost, I have a similar issue with my R32 gtst.

Mike.

  • 2 years later...

Resurrecting an old thread.

I'm experiencing some play in the driveline after my recent manual conversion, two different types:

  • There's a slight but noticeable 'clunk' on gear change (clutch-in). This happens most of the time but not always, and doesn't seem to be related to a specific gear or speed. This is the one I'd like to get fixed.
  • There's also slight 'slack' when changing over from accel to decel or vice versa. This feels quite similar to other manual cars I've driven but I'm not sure how 'tight' it's meant to be with an RB25DET gearbox?

I had a look under the car, I could rotate the front part of the tail shaft probably 2mm by hand, the rear part was harder to move. This is with the car in gear and handbrake on.

Which part of the driveline should I look at first?

What's the best way to check the condition of the tail shaft centre bearing?

From your symptom description I would suggest the centre bearing the tailshaft would be #1 suspect.

In reality, I find that it is every single point in the driveline adding up. I have play in the tailshaft, some in the diff, some in the rear CVs and some in the rear hubs. Not enough at each point to be concerned about, but added together they create a hell of an annoying clunk in my driveline.

Thanks GTSBoy, I'll start from there! I wouldn't be surprised either since the tailshaft is a combination of my R34 sedan rear half and an R33 coupe front half from the wreckers.

Just a couple of more observations from today:

  • There's a slight but noticeable 'clunk' on gear change (clutch-in). This happens most of the time but not always, and doesn't seem to be related to a specific gear or speed. This is the one I'd like to get fixed.

This seems to come from behind the driver i.e. centre bearing, diff, or drive shafts. Centre bearing is currently the prime suspect.


  • There's also slight 'slack' when changing over from accel to decel or vice versa. This feels quite similar to other manual cars I've driven but I'm not sure how 'tight' it's meant to be with an RB25DET gearbox?

This seems to be more in the front side so clutch or the gearbox itself. I reckon it's the latter.

I'm not too fussed about this one but the clunk on gear change is more annoying so need to get that sorted.

  • 2 weeks later...

I just checked this again with handbrake on and gearbox in neutral. There's about 8mm of play in the diff, measured on the outer ring where the tail shaft joins the diff. Not sure if this is a little or a lot?

I also did the 'diff test' and opposite wheel rotates the same way when turning so it's definitely is viscous diff. Might be time to upgrade...

Edited by V28VX37
  • 8 years later...

Most of my play is in the half shafts. What do people do about this? OEM are pretty expensive. Like $1,600 each.

I can rotate a wheel about 15-20mm at the outside of the tyre, is this too much?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...