Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Same problem here in an R32 GTR - clunks from the rear when driving harshly, so I put it over the pit and it has a ridiculous amount of play which we isolated to the rear diff. Next, is to remove the centre and get it rebuilt at a shop.

On that does anyone know a good place to go for a diff centre rebuild in Perth?

Do report back what they did to fix it and the cost, I have a similar issue with my R32 gtst.

Mike.

  • 2 years later...

Resurrecting an old thread.

I'm experiencing some play in the driveline after my recent manual conversion, two different types:

  • There's a slight but noticeable 'clunk' on gear change (clutch-in). This happens most of the time but not always, and doesn't seem to be related to a specific gear or speed. This is the one I'd like to get fixed.
  • There's also slight 'slack' when changing over from accel to decel or vice versa. This feels quite similar to other manual cars I've driven but I'm not sure how 'tight' it's meant to be with an RB25DET gearbox?

I had a look under the car, I could rotate the front part of the tail shaft probably 2mm by hand, the rear part was harder to move. This is with the car in gear and handbrake on.

Which part of the driveline should I look at first?

What's the best way to check the condition of the tail shaft centre bearing?

From your symptom description I would suggest the centre bearing the tailshaft would be #1 suspect.

In reality, I find that it is every single point in the driveline adding up. I have play in the tailshaft, some in the diff, some in the rear CVs and some in the rear hubs. Not enough at each point to be concerned about, but added together they create a hell of an annoying clunk in my driveline.

Thanks GTSBoy, I'll start from there! I wouldn't be surprised either since the tailshaft is a combination of my R34 sedan rear half and an R33 coupe front half from the wreckers.

Just a couple of more observations from today:

  • There's a slight but noticeable 'clunk' on gear change (clutch-in). This happens most of the time but not always, and doesn't seem to be related to a specific gear or speed. This is the one I'd like to get fixed.

This seems to come from behind the driver i.e. centre bearing, diff, or drive shafts. Centre bearing is currently the prime suspect.


  • There's also slight 'slack' when changing over from accel to decel or vice versa. This feels quite similar to other manual cars I've driven but I'm not sure how 'tight' it's meant to be with an RB25DET gearbox?

This seems to be more in the front side so clutch or the gearbox itself. I reckon it's the latter.

I'm not too fussed about this one but the clunk on gear change is more annoying so need to get that sorted.

  • 2 weeks later...

I just checked this again with handbrake on and gearbox in neutral. There's about 8mm of play in the diff, measured on the outer ring where the tail shaft joins the diff. Not sure if this is a little or a lot?

I also did the 'diff test' and opposite wheel rotates the same way when turning so it's definitely is viscous diff. Might be time to upgrade...

Edited by V28VX37
  • 8 years later...

Most of my play is in the half shafts. What do people do about this? OEM are pretty expensive. Like $1,600 each.

I can rotate a wheel about 15-20mm at the outside of the tyre, is this too much?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...