Jump to content
SAU Community

"play" In The Driveline

s13-steve
 Share

Recommended Posts

Missileman Veteran

Missileman

Posted
Posted

Same problem here in an R32 GTR - clunks from the rear when driving harshly, so I put it over the pit and it has a ridiculous amount of play which we isolated to the rear diff. Next, is to remove the centre and get it rebuilt at a shop.

On that does anyone know a good place to go for a diff centre rebuild in Perth?

Do report back what they did to fix it and the cost, I have a similar issue with my R32 gtst.

Mike.

  • 2 years later...
V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

Resurrecting an old thread.

I'm experiencing some play in the driveline after my recent manual conversion, two different types:

  • There's a slight but noticeable 'clunk' on gear change (clutch-in). This happens most of the time but not always, and doesn't seem to be related to a specific gear or speed. This is the one I'd like to get fixed.
  • There's also slight 'slack' when changing over from accel to decel or vice versa. This feels quite similar to other manual cars I've driven but I'm not sure how 'tight' it's meant to be with an RB25DET gearbox?

I had a look under the car, I could rotate the front part of the tail shaft probably 2mm by hand, the rear part was harder to move. This is with the car in gear and handbrake on.

Which part of the driveline should I look at first?

What's the best way to check the condition of the tail shaft centre bearing?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

From your symptom description I would suggest the centre bearing the tailshaft would be #1 suspect.

In reality, I find that it is every single point in the driveline adding up. I have play in the tailshaft, some in the diff, some in the rear CVs and some in the rear hubs. Not enough at each point to be concerned about, but added together they create a hell of an annoying clunk in my driveline.

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

Thanks GTSBoy, I'll start from there! I wouldn't be surprised either since the tailshaft is a combination of my R34 sedan rear half and an R33 coupe front half from the wreckers.

Just a couple of more observations from today:

  • There's a slight but noticeable 'clunk' on gear change (clutch-in). This happens most of the time but not always, and doesn't seem to be related to a specific gear or speed. This is the one I'd like to get fixed.

This seems to come from behind the driver i.e. centre bearing, diff, or drive shafts. Centre bearing is currently the prime suspect.


  • There's also slight 'slack' when changing over from accel to decel or vice versa. This feels quite similar to other manual cars I've driven but I'm not sure how 'tight' it's meant to be with an RB25DET gearbox?

This seems to be more in the front side so clutch or the gearbox itself. I reckon it's the latter.

I'm not too fussed about this one but the clunk on gear change is more annoying so need to get that sorted.

  • 2 weeks later...
V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted (edited)

I just checked this again with handbrake on and gearbox in neutral. There's about 8mm of play in the diff, measured on the outer ring where the tail shaft joins the diff. Not sure if this is a little or a lot?

I also did the 'diff test' and opposite wheel rotates the same way when turning so it's definitely is viscous diff. Might be time to upgrade...

Edited by V28VX37
  • 8 years later...
elohim_imanu Contributor

elohim_imanu

Posted
Posted

Most of my play is in the half shafts. What do people do about this? OEM are pretty expensive. Like $1,600 each.

I can rotate a wheel about 15-20mm at the outside of the tyre, is this too much?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • Duncan
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Duncan
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By Duncan · Posted

      Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Duncan
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...