Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Inmy opinion you guys are really getting to the point of needing some basic alignment and set up equipment.

I'd be getting a basic alligner, an older type laser machine is perfect, decent set of bump steer gauges and a decent camber/castor gauge of the aligned hasn't got one.

Those rear "traction" arms should not be lengthened or shortened unless you have the chassis sitting with bump steer gauges handy to see what's happening, they are a critical arm, guessing can cause all sorts of unpredictable behavior. The hicks eliminator kit you are using is similar to the ones I build, again it needs to be tuned with the right equipement to be set up right.

Spend a few bucks on some gear and you'll start taking leaps and bounds with car setup and learn alot along the way.

  • Replies 137
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Took the car out to an open day at our local track Hampton Downs on Saturday http://www.hamptondowns.com/

Here's four laps of me driving poorly (constructive criticism welcome :) )

Managed a 1:15.1 lap on the RaceChrono

Edited by OLLIE_NZ

Did a bit of messing around with a set of Performance Friction Pads that I was given (01 compound) they we're off an NZV8 car so were very close width wise to fitting in the factory calipers. The chap literally has shelves full of them!

They needed ~1.2mm machined off width wise, some slotted holes for the retainer pins and I had to take a few mm off the pad thickness as even second hand they are thicker than the new factory pads (15mm)

Best thing about them is that they were free :) ~$450 NZD for a set of fronts new

Machined the front discs down as they we're, and still are pretty shabby, plus we're changing from an Endless N35s pad to the PFC01s

img2033w.jpg

Messy job, the vacuum helped my lungs :)

img2036z.jpg

Took around .6mm off each end of the backing plate

img2037mc.jpg

Slotting the retainer pin holes (~8x6.5mm)

img2038en.jpg

Done

img2041nc.jpg

Bought some slicks too!

img2043k.jpg

Also bought a set of 4.3 GTS-4 diffs front and rear.

img2045wh.jpg

img2044e.jpg

Cut the front brake backing plates off too (figure they'll be going anyhow when we upgrade to a bigger setup)

img2046p.jpg

Be interesting to see how you go with the PFC01s. I am running PFC06s which are basically the same pad only for endurance racing so lose a little bit. I suspect they will be great in your car. In mine I have no ABS and they are VERY bitey. Too bitey for my driving and I lock fronts a lot. What rear pad are you running? You will need a pretty good rear pad I imagine to balance everything out....I suspect with the std caliper and rotors up front the pads will work better then on my car which has bigger rotors and calipers and I end up with a tad too much brakign force with such a race pad

Hi Roy, our car has no ABS also, the rear pads are Endless N35s which seem to have far less initial bite than the PFC01s but might be able to run at higher temperatures for longer?

The Endless pads seem to be quite aggressive on the rotors too so we're hoping that the Performance Frictions will be slightly less aggressive in that respect.

Have you tried any Pagid compounds?, we were going to buy some Yellow RS-29s I think which are an endurance pad but the PFC01s were free so we though we'd save ourselves $450NZD :)

Ended up getting an email back from the coilover spring manufacturer Merwede

This is what's written on our springs

Rear 'Merwede Progressive 250 49 98'

Front '25 250 59 118'

This is his email (I've added the conversions in red)

Good morning,

I've looked for the springs in our system, but was unable to find it. But nevertheless, I think I know the spring rates from the code on the spring.

For the rear it's progressive from 49 to 98 N/mm (280lb – 560lb), (5kg/mm - 10kg/mm)

For the front it's more difficult because that code doesn't mean much to me. But if the spring is also progressive, it will be 59 to 118 N/mm (340lb – 675lb), (6.4kg/mm - 12kg/mm)

Hop this serves you well.

Best regards,

Ramon van Dijk

Merwede Springs

Based on those figures fellas, as this is a circuit car we don't want progressive rate springs do we?

What do you guys reckon would be ideal front and rear spring rates for the car, the two circuits the car sees are pretty smooth.

Based on those figures fellas, as this is a circuit car we don't want progressive rate springs do we?

What do you guys reckon would be ideal front and rear spring rates for the car, the two circuits the car sees are pretty smooth.

No you don't want progressive spring rates on race car.

We run 9.8kg front springs and 7.6kg rear springs on our 32gtr and that works quite well. But we used to run it mostly at oran park which was very bumpy and it used to handle very nicely. So it maybe too soft if the circuits are smooth. Best to talk to a suspension guru who deals with race cars not road cars and has knowledge/experiance at the tracks you use. Get their advice on a ball park rate, start there and try a few different spring rates to see what your driving style responds best to.

Small update,

Made some headway into the 'missing' coming out of certain corners at Hampton Downs.

It's pretty basic but should be good for another year or two.

Single Bosch 044 external pump, spare outlet on the surge tank for another external fuel pump in the future.

Apologies for the cellphone pics, will post some higher res images soon.

Surge tank

photo84h.jpg

photo85i.jpg

Tow Hook, looks wonky but it's just the camera angle.

photo83.jpg

  • 2 months later...

Rightio chaps,

Not a lot of news on the car front since July.

Bought a set of near new Michelin slicks (only done 12 laps at Taupo). They were used for a back to back test on a NZV8 car to see if the car would be quicker on the Michelins than the current regulation Dunlops. Apparently they were 2-3 seconds per lap quicker than the Dunlops.

img2478w.jpg

We also bought a used brake package from an NZV8 race car for a very good price and got a few sets of brand new Performance Friction pads 01, 03 and 97 compounds, also a few spare sets of Performance friction front discs and Wilwood rears.

In an ideal world we would have splashed out for a set of used V8 Supercar Alcons but currently can't justify spending that kind of coin and were so sick of the factory R32 GTR brakes that we think this will be a good mid-way brake setup.

We have to design and make new brake hats and caliper brackets to get them to work with the GTR.

img2499r.jpg

Front disc dummied up using washers to space out the NZV8 hat to get some measurements.

img2508a.jpg

img2509j.jpg

Front caliper brackets were whipped up at work on the water jet cutter out of 12mm plate

img2483n.jpg

Rear dummied up, I think the easiest thing to do with the rear calipers is to re-drill them from the 135mm Wilwood bolt hole spacing down to 115mm Nissan spacing and we wont have to worry about a caliper bracket which looks pretty tricky for the rear.

img2498db.jpg

Still not convinced there is enough free space to re-drill the caliper down from 135mm to 115mm.

Has anyone been down this path before?

img2522u.jpg

Very very loose mock-up with the wheel on to check clearance.

img2525tx.jpg

Also bought a set of 17x9" Et20 BBS LMs

184181195full.jpg

Here's our current front brake hat design, pretty confident it will work. Still not 100% certain on what diameter the centre bore should be and also what size to make the stud holes (we're aware the studs are M12).

The hats will be turned up on the CNC mill and lathe at work.

If anyone has been down this path before and sees any errors with our design or would like to add anything please let us know :)

brakehats1600x1132.jpg

Hi Ollie, Unfortunately the guy that made the hats for me is nowhere to be found, I think he has moved overseas after the earthquakes, I needed to get a set of rear brakes done for another guy keen on a set, Otherwise I might have been able to find out for you.

We redrilled the holes for the rear ones, And yes it does get within a mill or two to the old holes, We put a loctite a Grub Screw in the old holes to help with the strength of it.

One piece of advice when making hats for the front, Make sure there are fairly shallow dished, The first set I got made looked like they would clear easily....But when the front suspension comes up the lower king pins rub on the rotor.

What size are the Michelin's?

Wilwood4pot4.jpg

Edited by Sub Boy32
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Well back from the wilderness that is filming on location and back to reality

Not a lot has happened since the last update but we're hoping to have the car back together for some January trackdays.

Decided to finish the rears in a month or so and are hanging out to get the car on the track so have unfortunately put the stock brakes back on the rear.

Ended up getting a good deal on a set of new discs.

img3323fi.jpg

Made an extra set of caliper brackets on the water jet cutter and then milled a step in them. The new sets bolt holes are 2mm wider to push the caliper further to the edge of the disc.

img3328z.jpg

Garage clutter

img3330v.jpg

Hats are done and anodised black

img3333u.jpg

img3325j.jpg

img3336df.jpg

Wow mate, I just had a read of your whole thread... That's one hell of a nice race GTR...

I'm going to continue to follow the progress and hopefully turn my R34 GTR into something similar haha

Nice roll cage too by the way, whoever made it was a genius!

  • 4 weeks later...

Very small update chaps.

Today I replaced the springs with some linear Eibach springs as the car had some progressive ones in it.

I ended up going for some 800 Ib front and 500 Ib rears after much head scratching.

I got some helper springs to keep the rear springs captive as when the car is up off the ground there was about 50mm of slop with the spring.

Also purchased and installed a Cusco rear sway bar.

On the way from Japan is an Ikeya tie rod end set.

Made a cardboard mockup of the centre console, maily to hide the dash bars. Will probably make the final thing up tomorrow from aluminium.

photoybh.jpg

Rear sway bar

img0263gi.jpg

Rear springs in

img0292wg.jpg

img0291tm.jpg

Fronts done

img0296wy.jpg

img0300xn.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...