Jump to content
SAU Community

Hel Stainless Steel Braided Clutch Line Group Buy


Recommended Posts

See the thing is, they make GTT brake lines and they are pretty much identical to the GTST ones.

With the clutch line, well the fitting in the master cylinder is the same as that in a GTST/GTR so the only thing that could be different is the length of the line (the GTST one is pretty long to begin with) and the fitting on the gearbox.

If any one has a photo of a GTT clutch line it would help a lot!

Edited by PM-R33
  • Replies 187
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

can i get a clutch line for my r34 gtt please phil bro

thanks

pm me when u need cash etc bro

Once they are available I will let you know Julz.

Blazk I sent your brake lines this afternoon so you should receive them on Monday, latest Tuesday :D

Edited by PM-R33

I'm trying to find out what the GTT clutch line looks like as I am pretty sure the GTST clutch line would have to fit! But no ETA at the moment; i'm contacting him tonight though.

Nice :)

I made a thread regarding the GTT clutch line difference here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...lu-t343718.html

Hopefully we will get some answers.

I ordered a GTST clutch line so if any one wants to be a guinea pig put your hand up. If it doesn't fit just send it back to me and we will have to work something else out....

Edited by PM-R33

I'm going to measure up how long the GTST clutch line on my mates car tonight and see how far back it would reach. If it reaches far enough than it will fit the GTT.

This means they can hopefully get sent this week, will let you know.

UPDATE

For the three people waiting on the GTT clutch line, I am ordering you the GTST clutch lines. I am 99% sure they will fit as I can not find a reason why they would not. The GTST lines have plenty of length on them to reach the slave cylinder on the GTT and the threads are the same.

If for some reason they don't fit I will offer a full refund or give you the details of some one else that wants to buy them or we can work something out. But I really don't think you will have a problem with them.

Will let you know soon an ETA of when they should get here.

Edited by PM-R33

Ah ok fair enough.

Hmm i'll send them another email to see what kind of ETA we are looking at.

EDIT:

The lines are getting finished today/tomorrow and should be sent early next week. Meaning I should hopefully have them by the end of next week.

Reason it had kind of been taking a bit long was due to not knowing what the GTT clutch line was going to be like and also we were measuring up a Supra clutch line to get them made (as they don't currently make them.)

So from now on they should be able to sell GTT clutch lines and Supra clutch lines if all goes well :thumbsup:

Edited by PM-R33

My mate shall be organising a Supra clutch line group buy through me once he trial fits his prototype line. So I can order some more for you guys than. Might not be until after Christmas though.

The lines should be getting sent out today, so hopefully arrive by the end of the week or early next week.

  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATE

They arrived yesterday however I was out wakeboarding all day so I wasn't able to accept them.

I picked them up from the depot just before so will have them all sent tomorrow morning.

Once again we have a small problem. One of the R34 GTT clutch lines wasn't sent (only got 2 instead of 3).... I don't suppose one of you guys would mind waiting another week or so until it gets sent out? I might just see if it can get sent out directly to you to make things quicker.

Will let you all know once they are sent.

Thanks for being patient guys.

Cheers

Righteo well I will send yours. Hopefully Gimps or Pintaline aren't in a rush, i'll see if they reply tonight.

I hate when this crap happens. Makes me feel so bad when it is out of my hands.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...