Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So my s13 has a 4:11 6x2 bolt diff in it, and has a new rear cradle in it also. ( under the assumption it's an r32 gtr diff and rear)

I've Damaged the diff or bearings, so will be removing and inspecting.

I did pick up a spare diff awhile back that have sitting there, it's also a 6x2bolt. It has stamped on it '38311' and 'A3'. Would this be the teeth count/ratio?

1st thing. If by 6x2 you really mean 6 bolt flanges arranges in 3x2, then it's not GTR. GTR are evenly spaced 6 bolt. S chassis diffs and NA R chassis diffs are 3x2.

The ratio will be easily worked out by looking on the circumference of the crownwheel for the markings which will be some big number like 37 and some smaller number like 9 (for a 4.11 - other similar numbers for the other similar ratios like 4.08, 4.36, 3.89, etc). Inside the diff. Not on the housing. Anything on the housing can mean nothing about the internals.

  • 4 weeks later...

Ahhh okay. Yeah I pulled my diff out and had a look it's a 4:11 (4:08) also has vicious lsd stickers on it

And it would be out of an abs model as it has the hole for the sensor at the front of it where tails shaft goes in.

I've smashed a tooth off the pinion..

So looking to source a replacement now.

I have another diff but it's non abs 3.91 and sounds abit worn, doesn't look like would fit anyway.

Any idea what my diff would be out of? Stagea only possibility? ( some stage before I bought mine someone has replaced the rear cradle with brand new genuine Nissan)

Also for a gtr diff, would I need to fit whole cradle, and what about hubs for the shafts?

Edited by 20SIX
  • 3 weeks later...

Hey mate, got it sorted.

Turns out I had the silvia diff r200 4:08's abs model. (3x2 6 bolt shafts)

Bought an r200 out of r33 4:11 abs 5 bolt shafts.

I changed the rear hat over from the silvia diff to the 33 diff (silvia one being 4 bolt rear and 33 2 bolt)

Then the 33 diff front mounts run bushes and longer bolts instead of being solid mounted like s13. So ended up buying some cnc machined solid bushes and aquiring the longer bolts to suit..

The 6 bolt Silvia shafts fit straight into the 33 diff and all is good.

Also had the 33 diff pulled down, new bearings and shimmed and backlash set etc.

now I just need to save my money to do the one piece tailshaft ( my 2 piece is just about stuffed) and remove and rebuild the rb25 gearbox as syncros aren't happy in higher rpm. ( only on 13 psi also)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...