Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I need your help guys.... month ago my car was playing with RPM when i stop at lights, then suddenly car shuts down since then i couldn't start the car. then i have replaced the fuel pump.......car starts up and run for 1 week.......now the car wont start up without acceleration and also stalls while driving and at traffic lights. So far i have changed the fuel pump, idle controller , AFM, fuel regulator and canister...still cars stalls when slowing down......tried 2 other AFM's still same...basic computer readings are ok...............who can fix my car............i can bring the car anytime this week and i need low cost fault finding.Thanks in advance

Car : Nissan Skyline R33 RB25DET Series2 Auto 97000KM - stock car except POD

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335019-r33-gtst-workshop/
Share on other sites

Electrical problem (dodgy earth or dodgy wiring), Perhaps not enough voltage is getting to the fuel pump and its not pumping through enough fuel, thats why it will start up when you give it some gas and why it will stall at traffic lights. If it isnt that then its most likely the injectors like Alvin said.

Edited by FrangaR33
Atmo blow off valve?

not to sound rude...but how can blow off valve effect the car in that manner...electric ground or injectors makes sense...also what about the spark plugs or coil packs...maybe if they are faulty the car wouldnt run properly?

I suggested atmo bov because he said his car turns off when coming to red lights.

How it works:

Car detects airflow from the afm

The atmo bov vents the air

Computer thinks "oh shit" and adds more fuel because it's replacing the air that's meant to be there (via recirculation pipe)

Causes it to richen up and stall

I suggested atmo bov because he said his car turns off when coming to red lights.

How it works:

Car detects airflow from the afm

The atmo bov vents the air

Computer thinks "oh shit" and adds more fuel because it's replacing the air that's meant to be there (via recirculation pipe)

Causes it to richen up and stall

Makes sense...but mosts of the cars have atmo bow off valves...are you saying that his blow off might be faulty and leaking too much air?...man didnt even think of that...great work krissy... :)

what about the plugs...can faulty plugs and coil packs coz that too?

Makes sense...but mosts of the cars have atmo bow off valves...are you saying that his blow off might be faulty and leaking too much air?...man didnt even think of that...great work krissy... ;)

what about the plugs...can faulty plugs and coil packs coz that too?

Stock cars have plumb back BOVs.

lol dude you've spent alot of money just replacing things hoping that they will fix the problem. wrong way to go about it man.

Take it to a mechanic/workshop get them to diagnose it then fix it from there, instead of just replacing everything in hope lol

Stock cars have plumb back BOVs.

Ya i know but i was refering to CR33M's comment about atmo blow offs...just wanted to confirm that he was expecting the blow off to be faulty...not just having an atmo blow off in the car causing the issue...if you know what i mean...

I suggested atmo bov because he said his car turns off when coming to red lights.

How it works:

Car detects airflow from the afm

The atmo bov vents the air

Computer thinks "oh shit" and adds more fuel because it's replacing the air that's meant to be there (via recirculation pipe)

Causes it to richen up and stall

this happened to me when i removed my bov

fixed up after i put in the ssqv

id def check coilpacks and injectors as well coz i had a few problems involving these at the same time as the bov issue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...