Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 79
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It would be depending on the power that you were chasing.

A GT3071R will support 270>300kw (with a big rear housing) but will be laggier than a gt2871R as it has a 60mm turbine wheel rather that the 53.8mm turbine wheel found in the 2871R. Also the GT3071R runs a 56 trim compressor which will also be slightly laggier than the 52 trim which is the most common trim used on the GT2871R although the 56 trim is available with the GT2871R's.

not sure if they have any markings that determine whether or not they are "B"'s etc without measuring lobes with a dial gauge................speaking of lobes, if the cams are still in the motor, I wouldn't be touching them before checking lobes & journals regardless of mileage.

So where do I start shopping for a NS111 compressor wheel and housing? :P

The NS111 wheel is the T28 9 blade turbine wheel. I thnk that you will find it's cheaper to buy a complete CHRA than to buy just the compressor wheel, get the housing machined to fit and then get the assembly balanced. Infact it might be the cheapest to get a complete GT2871R swap the T2 turbine housing over with the T3 housing on your 2530 then sell the 2530 as a complete turbo, going this route you will probably on be paying a few hundred once the 2530's sold, and you can swap the housings yourself.

As for the cam they should have the lift and duration stamped on the back end of the cam and the shaft itself will have Tomei cast into it.

EDIT!! Looks like i could be wrong about Tomei being cast into the cam as i have just look at some pictures and it looks like they don't. I know my HKS do but Tomei mustn't.

IMG_0768.jpg

IMG_0766.jpg

Edited by D_Stirls

rm rb26 greddy 'ss' street-special cams are marked "grex ss"

if I recall correctly my rb25 tomei poncams were marked; were NIB so had no worries.

sounds nice on idle :)

rueben - sell the hks 2530 and purchase a new turbo, more economical that way & better value for money IMHO

reuben - sell the hks 2530 and purchase a new turbo, more economical that way & better value for money IMHO

:) By the time the 2530 sells, I'd be able to afford an R35 :(

Figured I'd just have a much better chance of building the turbo I want, rather than rely on selling, then finding the right turbo. Plus I don't have to deal with tyre-kickers.

The T3 housing i the thing that's not easy to come by. I'm pretty sure that Ryans GT2871R was actually a GT-RS, which is the same turbo except that HKS offer a T3 turbine housing where as Garrett don't. That is why i'm suggesting buying the complete turbo and swapping just the rear housings.ATP offer aftermarket T3 housings for the T28 based turbos though.

I GT3071R will be $11963 posted from the states (i think it's canada actually). That's a 0.82 A/R with the 2.75 inlet 2 inch out compressor housing (which looks closer to the factory turbo than the 4 inch inlet version.

I just had a look and ATP will do you a 2871R CHRA and compressor housing for $1204 posted.

A complete GT2871R will be round the $1600 mark posted, but then you can sell the GT2530 complete.

well i am getting mine from the US so yeah expect at least a couple of weeks

This is not an option.

The T3 housing i the thing that's not easy to come by. I'm pretty sure that Ryans GT2871R was actually a GT-RS, which is the same turbo except that HKS offer a T3 turbine housing where as Garrett don't. That is why i'm suggesting buying the complete turbo and swapping just the rear housings.ATP offer aftermarket T3 housings for the T28 based turbos though.

I GT3071R will be $11963 posted from the states (i think it's canada actually). That's a 0.82 A/R with the 2.75 inlet 2 inch out compressor housing (which looks closer to the factory turbo than the 4 inch inlet version.

Is this a typo? :)

I just had a look and ATP will do you a 2871R CHRA and compressor housing for $1204 posted.

A complete GT2871R will be round the $1600 mark posted, but then you can sell the GT2530 complete.

Might look into this option.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...