Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Peeps I could do with some different opinions on this one

I used to run a EMU (E-Manage Ultimate) on my 33 gtst and have since changed over to a PFC as I felt it would be a better option for me.

Any way I ran the GTR plug n play N-4 harness which required the wire swap as shown

post-31195-1283597085_thumb.jpg

but I didnt do the swap myself i left it up to crd when they installed and tuned it.

Since I have been running the PFC my new tuner has had a problem with the engine check light staying on and have tried just about everything to get to the bottom of it and i was just wondering if any of you could tell me if the wire swap for the emu would be done on the actual cars harness or are they swapped on the N-4 harness???

My tuner (Yavuz, Unigroup) is at a loss as to whats going on and the weird thing is that when the air con is turned on the check light turns off. I dont get it.

We have tried checking the exhuast temp sender/sensor- its fine

02 sensor-fine

all other wiring seems ok

the only thing we have found is when the light turns off with the A/C one of (I cant remember which) the voltage readings on his hand controller goes up heaps.

I have been getting a lot of help from Matt (MBS206) who is a top bloke for trying to help me sus this out and we are gonna have a good look over it tomorrow.

It does not effect the running or driving of the car in any way and sometimes wont come on for weeks, Ive even done a full track day without it comming on. Then at other times (like the last few days) it stays on for weeks as well.

I know its only a light but its driving me insane :happy: Ive read through both EMU and PFC stickys and thought that MAYBE the default boost controller setting on the PFC is on but I think the light would stay on all the time??? Paulr33, you out there???

Cmon guys, Brainstorming time. Im open to any suggestions that may help us track it down so I dont have to drag Matt away from Texi for too long tomorrow.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335554-changed-from-emu-to-pfc/
Share on other sites

powerfc basics 101

read the pfc FAQ on how to work out why the engine check light is on

or you can use the online hand controller emulator and check out ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK

any sensor that is out of range, toast, not working, dead turns on the engine check light and will be highlighted in this screen in black background

Ah ok thanks Paul I'll try it. I did read the FAQ but didn't have a play with the emulator.

I'm a newb when it comes to playing around with ecu's and have always thought it best left to the pros if I wasn't sure what I was doing

going to the basic 101 faq here will not help in this case. Not a chance.

Just wondering, when you said the voltage goes up heaps, what voltage are you talking about ? AFM ? have you tried to swap the PFC out with another unit ? have you tried using a R33 rb25 pfc?

It is an r33 rb25 PFC (was thizzles old one) to honest I can't remember which voltage it was. My hc isn't compatible with my version of the PFC so I'm waiting on a new one. Yavuz did check all the obvious things like afm o2 blah blah and said theywere all fine.

That's what has got us stumped. All the "normal" things came up ok.

You know yourself guilt-toy, yavuz is VERY thorough with these things

Yup.

Hate to say it, but you are screwed. If Yavus cannot figure it out posting about the issue on the forums is a waste of time as well as taking it to any other tuners.

Have no other suggestions for you but to try another ECU. Problem with that is that even if you have datalogit saving and re-loading the tune from Power FC to Power FC does not work 100% of the time. I have owned 3 power FC's at the same time when I was playing with my car before i left Australia and I have witnessed this first hand (Long story it was during my transition to Vipec)

Good luck with it, keep me posted if you can I am interested in the outcome.

You know yourself guilt-toy, yavuz is VERY thorough with these things

Yeh I know what your saying GT, it was actually a suggestion from Yavuz just go see if anybody has had this kind of issue with a PFC before cause he's never seen it.

I spose I could send it away go be checked out and see if it has a faulty chip/wiring etc but he also sId he has had mixed results with that as well.

Always the way eh, as you know it took me sooooo long to get one and now it's playing up.

The main reason we want to sort it out is as soon as my datalogit turns up we are going E85 so although "just" a light I'd prefer to have an ecu that is in perfect working order for swithing maps and what not to avoid any possible corruption of data.

Buuuuuut if like you said it dosent work 100% of the time maybe I should look at something like Vipec or Haltech, depends on Yavuz wants to tune.

I might send you a pm later about the iner workings and viabilty of the vipec on my setup of your up for it?

Ta

I mean that it does not work 100% of the time when your loading one map from one Apexi Power FC to another Apexi Power FC using Datalogit. (if you were to test another unit borrowed from a friend or something)

If you tuned both maps on the same power fc then it works 100%, its when moving a map to another computer that could give you issues.

get me?

When i found the issue even cruise was not right, but if i re-tuned that actual computer everything would work fine... Weird huh?

So yeah loading maps to the same ecu you tuned it with is fine.

Sure shoot me a PM. I am a Vipec dealer now so try not to ask me if you "should" change over because you know what the answer would be :P

PS do not mention the V word around Yavus =) he is more of a A man ! hahahahaa

Buuuuuut if like you said it dosent work 100% of the time maybe I should look at something like Vipec or Haltech, depends on Yavuz wants to tune.

Ta

Ok, I've had a look through my old emanage installation booklet and I assume the wire change/swap is done on the emanage harness and not on the gtst's (or cars) harness if that makes sense.

Could someone with an emanage ultimate who installed it themselves confirms this for me so I can eliminate that theory.

Cheers

I mean that it does not work 100% of the time when your loading one map from one Apexi Power FC to another Apexi Power FC using Datalogit. (if you were to test another unit borrowed from a friend or something)

If you tuned both maps on the same power fc then it works 100%, its when moving a map to another computer that could give you issues.

get me?

When i found the issue even cruise was not right, but if i re-tuned that actual computer everything would work fine... Weird huh?

So yeah loading maps to the same ecu you tuned it with is fine.

Sure shoot me a PM. I am a Vipec dealer now so try not to ask me if you "should" change over because you know what the answer would be :D

PS do not mention the V word around Yavus =) he is more of a A man ! hahahahaa

Yeah the powerfC has some pretty weird idiosyncrasy,

ive had about 5 cases of plug in hand controller when running and car stalls, wont start and tunes are corrupt... reload tune and do it 5 mins later and its all good.

loading in base maps and the numbers being show are correct but car wont tune up right...... 3 or 4 pfc's. Have to open 2 sessions and cut and paste each map and write individually.

i was off site today so havent had achance to study the ecu pinout to trace the ac circuit yet sorry.

No worries Trent,

hey you would know this, as I said in the pm I sent you my hc is not the right one for my PFC, will that new EL commander work with ANY version of gtst PFC? Cause I'll order one tomorrow.

I'll also drop into my tuners and find out exactly what voltage it was that spikes when the ac is turned on

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...