Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well as I have posted before I have been looking at pissing off the open diff in my V35 auto for quite some time

The most obvious solution would be to swap out the diff with that of an Auto 350z, the problem with that however is there aren’t all that many 2nd hand 350z auto diffs getting around and not that many 350zs @ the wreckers

Infact I called up a wrecker in Sydney who had a 350z and he wanted $1200 for the diff which seemed rather steep given that it was 2nd hand and the stock Viscous diff tends to loose its effectiveness after about 120k from what I have read on the net.

Now with the car being my daily driver I didn’t want to go down the path of fitting a noisy clunky 1.5 or 2 way mech diff like I had in my 180sx that chirped the tyres every time i did a tight low speed turn. Then theres having to change the oil in a mech diff almost if not more times than you change the engine oil if you want to keep it in good order. And as I mention earlier the Viscous OEM nissan item isn’t all that much chop after its done 120+k

So i was feeling kind of lost in my quest until I discovered the Quaife Helical LSD

QDF10L_0.jpg

Put simple its like an open diff but in reverse... it sends more power to the wheel with more grip and less to the wheel with less grip!

no noisy clutch plates chattering "if anyone’s owned a car with an older KAZZ diff you'll know what I mean" and no clunks

Now I want this because I’m sick of taking off at the lights quickly and either having traction control kick in and kill all the fun or with VDC turned off one of the wheels spin up and not go anywhere fast. I also plan on going to as many Wednesday afternoon sprints as I can @ QR and the open LSD sucked ass constantly spinning the inside wheel and slowing the car down/kicking in the VDC

Now the only bad part is not that many people seem to have this diff in Australia and it costs a fair bit 2 rpw.com.au sells the version for 350z that already has the OEM LSD at around $1680

The model we need is QDF10L

I found the right one on ebay but the only sellers I can find are based in the US with the diff priced at $1499 US then there’s going to be freight + tax + customs on top before it gets here

Yes i know what some of you are saying, I should have just bought a 6 speed V35... at the time however I could not justify the extra 6 to 8k premium on the price compared to what I purchased my auto V for

So am I alone or is anyone else interested in getting one of these? heck even for those of you who have a 6 speed with the OEM LSD could benefit by upgrading to this as long as you don’t plan on drifting as I think this diff acts more as a 1 way diff

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335579-open-diff-be-gone/
Share on other sites

I love helical LSDs on street cars. My Tomei drives me nuts, to a point where I miss the VLSD. If I had money I'd consider selling off the 2 way I've got at the moment for a Quaife.

And yes, helical diffs behave like 1 way diffs. Another property that doesn't make them ideal for drifting is that, if the two output shafts' relative speed difference is too great it reverts to an open setting. That's not a problem for street use, but if you're kerb hopping on the track where you regularly unload one wheel (or intentionally trying to break traction) then it won't be ideal.

For comparison, the stock S15 diff is helical. And people who end up using those Silvias for drift/motorsport bin the diff sooner rather than later.

From what I've read from the US Z33 owners, the Quaife works really well on AutoX and track days. And that's from guys who've upgraded from the VLSD as well as the open (in the US the base model Z's have an open diff).

Got a e-mail today from a shop in Sydney about the diff its going to set me back $1815 and about 4 to 6 weeks before I can get it

Iv also called up a shop in Perth that also sells quaife diffs and am waiting on them to get back to me. They sell the QDF13L for $1681 which is the diff replacement for the viscous LSD in the 350Z

Now I cant see how the QDF10L and the QDF13L can have that much of a difference in production costs so Im interested to see what sort of price they get back to me on the QDF10L it should be about the same

All seems a bit on the expensive side given that I picked up my KAZZ 2 way for my 180sx for about $1200 5 years ago

Torsen diffs will always cost more than clutch-pack diffs. If you want cheaper you could always get a clutch pack diff, and deal with the non-linear lockup.

The 180SX comparison isn't fair either. By 2005 your 180SX was 10 years old, and so its market was quite mature. Even now the car is about 7 years old, and you've had 5 years of inflation to deal with. Greenline has the Kaaz 2 way for the 6MT cars for $1300+ shipping, which isn't that far off what you paid for your 180SX's when you factor inflation into the mix.

The other shop in Perth called me back said $1700 - $1800 I told them to e-mail me the details

The diff however would end up on the west coast with the other diffs they had ordered so Im not sure if thats 1700 - 1800 to me or if im going to have to add postage to the east coast on top of that

Also price wise Torsen vs clutch pack I do remember having to pay $95 for a can of KAZZ diff oil every 3 to 6 or so months depending on how many k's/ track days I had done. Although from what I read on the instructions KAZZ says u should change it every 5000ks....

Ok guys have pretty much ordered the diff, the shop I was talking to in Perth never got back to me with an e-mail and I dont like getting f**ked around

As soon as I get the payment details I will be ordering the diff from MPS Garage its going to set me back $1850 including freight to my door on the Gold Coast

i don't know if you guys have actually driven a 1 way diff before, but i got one in my s13 race car which i removed from my street s13 and i must say its the best all rounder,

no noises at all, when you do a tight turn light throttle it acts as an open wheeler cause of the big difference in wheel speed, but as soon as you apply decent amount of load it locks up just like any other 1.5 or 2 way diff, i used to drift my street s13 occasionally with no issues at all. Now im using it for circuit racing and i still struggle keeping it stright out of corners. and yes i've had the diff apart and yes it is a 1 way mechanical.

Ideal diff for the street in my opinion, cause there's no load on the diff on tight corners light throttle, so there's no clank :)

  • 2 months later...
i don't know if you guys have actually driven a 1 way diff before, but i got one in my s13 race car which i removed from my street s13 and i must say its the best all rounder,

no noises at all, when you do a tight turn light throttle it acts as an open wheeler cause of the big difference in wheel speed, but as soon as you apply decent amount of load it locks up just like any other 1.5 or 2 way diff, i used to drift my street s13 occasionally with no issues at all. Now im using it for circuit racing and i still struggle keeping it stright out of corners. and yes i've had the diff apart and yes it is a 1 way mechanical.

Ideal diff for the street in my opinion, cause there's no load on the diff on tight corners light throttle, so there's no clank :rofl:

I have Torsen LSD on my RWD Corolla ( True Track ) and MX5 , both race cars .. they work fine and most of the MX5 race cars run Torsen , used to have TRD clutch systems for FWD Corolla race car , screwed very tight and doesn't have any noise on slow turn either .. may be it depends on the systems & make

  • 1 year later...

Opening an old thread but I have a 250GT and I would like an LSD or anything other than a single Wheeler peeler. will a 350Z diff fit because I can't afford $1000+ for an aftermarket one at the moment. What do I need to do

Opening an old thread but I have a 250GT and I would like an LSD or anything other than a single Wheeler peeler. will a 350Z diff fit because I can't afford $1000+ for an aftermarket one at the moment. What do I need to do

Be prepared to get ripped $1000 for a stock 350z from a wrecker

also i dont think the 250gt is the same diff as the vq35 equipped car

I picked up a low K 350z manual diff for around $550 delivered from Japan, came with wheel sensors and stub axles. It took a while though as it had to go in a container. If you need one give Prince Skyline a PM, (JDM Factory) or PM me for his number.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...