Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would just like a simple answer will a 35.Z diff fit or not because and aftermarket one is x3 more and I need to know how much to.save for. Sick of going into my driveway and the stupid open diff spinning the wheel which has less traction which is the one in the air

Why dont YOU have a look at the mounting positions, the stub axle bolt patterns and make up your mind, or are you waiting for someone to magically say yeah I changed the Diff in my white V35 VQ25DD sedan to a 350z one and it worked?

Do you want a LSD if its going to make your car signifigantly slower? Thats what we are telling you to check!

Can't swap the stub axle over, they have different spline configurations. Can you swap the Outside flange off the stub axle! Or swap over to 3.5 litre driveshafts.

And you still don't know if your going to a longer diff, making the car slower.

Good luck.

Btw, super random first post, what are you doing here.....?

Ok I reread your post , all good much easier to just swap the flanges from the original diff to the vlsd . I don't know why there isn't more information on the net about it , it' just seems like such an easy swap to something factory and a lower price than an after market product

Ok, I read and tried to understand your post. But I'm failing.

What are you trying to Swap? from what to what?

Maybe this will explain a bit better

dscf0027ej.jpg

Here is from left to right:

03 driver side from VLSD

03 pass. side from VLSD

05 pass side from open

http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/483882-what-could-cause-stub-shafts-to-pull-out-2.html

Compare the pair....

Your original

http://www.importmon...6.jpg&title=V35 R VQ25DD

Z33

http://www.importmon...791.jpg&title=Z Z33 R VQ35DE

Doesn't look like it would work, agree?

The flanges on the pictures on these diffs , the vlsd has the evenly spaced 6 holes to bolt the axle to the flange , where as the original v35 diff has 6 holes but 3 paired ...

So I was looking at the possibility of swapping the "stub axles" the part that slides into the diff to allow the shafts the mate with the diff ..

Now seeing the pictures that youbhave posted looks like the stub axle is longer obviously . So changing the full axle may be the trick

Hi

I'm also consider going to a LSD in my car but its a 300GT. Its diff ratio is a 3.13 ratio so if I go to a quaife will that mean quicker acceleration but lower top end?

Will be doing a engine swap next year but keeping the gearbox as its the same as the standard VQ35 so built to handle the power.

Cheers

A quaife will not change the ratio of your diff. It is a part that fits in the centre, not part of the gears. We were talking about a wholesale pumpkin (the whole unit) change.

That being said, might be wise if the stub axle flange fits, getting a manual 350z vlsd diff (3.5:1) as it would give you a useful boost in acceleration, as well as the LSD component.

Top end isn't really something to worry about, as long as cruising rpm is still comfortable. Really taken your car past 240kmh? Otherwise not going to effect you.

  • 9 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...