Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not sure if it is true... but... pretty confident a Kombi has a lower CD than an E type Jag.... CD can also have a fair bit to do with the way air leaves the car would be keen to know if the N1 bits effect the R32??? I have also noticed a massive difference going down hill in my R32, pop it into neutral and it damn near stops dead, however wheels seem to spin pretty freely when it is on stands. 1989 Patrol though could roll forever, before front hubs etc were done, rather than being CD related, pretty sure this was just a result of wheel momentum.

Yeah I guess there are many factors (a given). However I recall reading an article quite a while ago on autospeed.com saying that one way to measure the effectiveness of your drag is to go on the same stretch of road, same weather, conditions etc etc and accelerate to ~140km/h and let go of the accelerator, then time how long it takes to drop back down to 100km/h. This only works for the same car, but my old Subaru (newer actually, 2004) had basically the same gear ratios and roughly same weight, added AWD, and still noticeably would drop down slower from 140km/h if i ever tested it. I know cause there is a point on the freeway where I always coast, that had larger and heavier wheels than stock, compared to stock 16" GTS-T rims and tyres.

More to the point I guess is there any proven way to improve the cars performance with 1 type of body kit over another or perhaps or even paint finishings.

ie Kiwi yachtsmen use lanolin on their hulls to improve the boats slip through the water & powerboaters use it for better fuel economy-not possible on the car but??????????

That would be to overcome the skin drag of a fluid of a an element, Skin drag accounts for a very large proportion of fluid resistance read (way higher then frontal area or CD).

To much drag= not enough boost

Seriously if you think you can feel it then it may be time to turn out the torch and pull the sheets back

The swelling will go away

I drive a pathfinder and sure it effects up high when i drive and drive it fast 130k and above you can feel it pushing the wind

But it would have a cd of 1 or maybe greater

Not sure if it is true... but... pretty confident a Kombi has a lower CD than an E type Jag.... CD can also have a fair bit to do with the way air leaves the car would be keen to know if the N1 bits effect the R32??? I have also noticed a massive difference going down hill in my R32, pop it into neutral and it damn near stops dead, however wheels seem to spin pretty freely when it is on stands. 1989 Patrol though could roll forever, before front hubs etc were done, rather than being CD related, pretty sure this was just a result of wheel momentum.

back in the late 80's or early 90's the volvo race cars were station wagons because they had a lower CD than the sedans.

how sleek a car is has little to do with CD as turbulance can dramtically affect it.

The only car i know of that you can feel the wind resistance when driving at freeway speeds is my dad's old 1988 Suzuki Sierra. It's a bloody red metal box with 4 wheels and a 66hp 1.3L carby 4cyl. Mind you, if you're doing 100km/h and there is s slight crosswind, that thing will just tip over haha

To much drag= not enough boost

Seriously if you think you can feel it then it may be time to turn out the torch and pull the sheets back

The swelling will go away

I drive a pathfinder and sure it effects up high when i drive and drive it fast 130k and above you can feel it pushing the wind

But it would have a cd of 1 or maybe greater

Greater than 1. Yeah right. It'd be in the 0.4x range somewhere. The frontal area will be alot greater than an R32 however.

As mentioned freeway speeds just wont be enough to notice the affect of Cd alone. Drag, however, also includes the skin friction and the means by which the air leaves the car (also mentioned before).

There's a topic somewhere on sau comparing fuel usage which has testimates from people who have experimented with tyre width, apparently it makes a HUGE difference to fuel economy, and hence overall drag on the car.

I find with the gtt that downhill on the freeway I still need throttle when everyone else is braking, that's because of the gear ratio's as well, 3200 rpm at 120km/h, massive engine braking.

Cd is a method of oversimplifying a shape, it's not greatly useful in normal applications, esp on 20 year old cars.

Edited by Galois

skyline wind tunnel:

http://il.youtube.com/watch?v=V6ewoDeUo5U&...feature=related

the turbulence at the back is present on all cars to a degree, it can perform one of two actions:

1. It can create a buffer for air to flow over, much like it does on a ute with the tail up (reference: mythbusters haha)

2. It can create a point of lower pressure, pulling the car back. Not much, but just a thought

Edited by Galois
Greater than 1. Yeah right. It'd be in the 0.4x range somewhere. The frontal area will be alot greater than an R32 however.

Do a search on sarcasim I know it wouldnt be anwhere close to 1

More to the point I guess is there any proven way to improve the cars performance with 1 type of body kit over another or perhaps or even paint finishings.

ie Kiwi yachtsmen use lanolin on their hulls to improve the boats slip through the water & powerboaters use it for better fuel economy-not possible on the car but??????????

Well cars actually do have a trick or 2 up their sleeves for better aerodynamics. It's called vortex generators / fins. You will mainly find them on Evos and WRXs (mainly evos).

They look something like this (but not limited to):

http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/images/...exGenerator.jpg

This basically alleviates some of the air turbulance / air suction at the back of the car, stabilizing it and giving slightly better drag.

The other thing is rear diffusers. I'm sure you know this one.

Also Galois, that 'wind tunnel' video wasn't much lol, only showed the effect of the rear air turbulance. The underbody of the car plays a major part in fluid dynamics too. Reading your posts, you should have no problem understanding that as you're from an engineering / science background.

Edited by TyresBro
Also Galois, that 'wind tunnel' video wasn't much lol, only showed the effect of the rear air turbulance. The underbody of the car plays a major part in fluid dynamics too.

Yeah not a great video, but might help someone with visualising the are effects over the car. The underbody is the most important part, very few new supercars have a wing because the underbody of the car is so highly developed for working air.

The ground effects cars in f1 pulled the highest g forces ever and were banned due to dangerously high cornering speeds. Current f1 cars have a rear diffuser built into part of the safety arrangement which caused many teams to be upset when the design was introduced last season.

Not really adding anything onto to what you said mate, just some examples.

Why the interest in the drag coefficient? It doesn't mean much except at top speed?

Well actually this topic hasn't been covered yet. Also theoretically it's not just top speed, it is accelerative capacity as well. Example: Car A that has Cd of .5 will start exponentially slowing down from 140km/h and top out by 200km/h compared to Car B with 0.3 Cd which will probably start from 160km/h and top out by 220km/h or so (both example figures) assuming same everything except Cd so basically Car B achieved what Car A could do at the same amount of time but higher in acceleration and speed. Also i believe drag makes a smoother and easier ride :D

fat gf's are more noticable when driving RB20 powered cars LOL. Mine already weighs 1500kg, but tbqh it dosen't get pushed around on the road as much by wind, trucks going past etc as the old VN! :D

Soooooo...1500kgs of Girlfriend plus 1400kgs of R32 plus fuel and you...no wonder the old rb20 struggles.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...