Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Personally I just get a bad vibe, find someone who is totally anal about their cars and has perfected all the small stuff, sure you will pay a premium and maybe 25% more than other examples but even after 1 year you will have saved yourself money as you won't have to fix everyone else's issues and dodgy mods (eg the locked diff).

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It is a massive pain in the ass to drive, it flogs out bushes, it destroys tyres, it is illegal, it makes the car handle worse, it is a cheapskate way to drift a car which says something about the person and the car. Eg they can't afford a proper LSD hence probably stinged on everything else, also that they drift it so it has probably had a hard life, the front end damage says that as well.

I would be getting under the car personally and checking to see if the sump or sway bar is dented.

A proper 1.5 way LSD centre costs about $900, installation would be around $2-400 depending on where you go and what else they do.

This will be the type of car i will be waiting out for mate...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...le-t311909.html

It eventually sold for around 10k or so i think. I had my eye on this car for awhile but my car didn't sell in time. Just be a little patient and you will see awesome deals pop up here and there.

Just gotta be patient buddy...i know how you feel as i bought one when i wanted one too but luckily i came across a good find after the linked one above sold.

It is a massive pain in the ass to drive, it flogs out bushes, it destroys tyres, it is illegal, it makes the car handle worse, it is a cheapskate way to drift a car which says something about the person and the car. Eg they can't afford a proper LSD hence probably stinged on everything else, also that they drift it so it has probably had a hard life, the front end damage says that as well.

I would be getting under the car personally and checking to see if the sump or sway bar is dented.

A proper 1.5 way LSD centre costs about $900, installation would be around $2-400 depending on where you go and what else they do.

Ah k cool. So it's not worth buying if it has a welded diff as I'm just gonna have to fork out 1k+ just to get a new one. Thanks.

Mate the forum has given advice, its up to you whether or not to take it.

Most if not all of us have said stay away.

Yeah I understand, I was just curious to know more about the diff that's all as I don't know anything about them. And Rolls answered all my questions so I understand where you guys are coming from now. If it's welded I will go back to the white 33.

This will be the type of car i will be waiting out for mate...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...le-t311909.html

It eventually sold for around 10k or so i think. I had my eye on this car for awhile but my car didn't sell in time. Just be a little patient and you will see awesome deals pop up here and there.

Just gotta be patient buddy...i know how you feel as i bought one when i wanted one too but luckily i came across a good find after the linked one above sold.

Yeah I won't be buying one until I'm sure everything is ok, which is why I'm on here asking so many questions about all these cars lol.

Good thing the guys brought up the diff though, when he was telling me about the diff I didn't think too much of it. I was more interested in asking him about the engine, what boost he ran it at and if he would let me get a mechanic inspect the car.

Will do mate. Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.

Edit: Just smsed the seller as talking about diffs all day got me curious and I had to know.

Quote from the seller: It's a full automatic. It's been in the car for 3 years and it was purchased for $3500.

Sound right? $3500 sounds a bit high considering Rolls said you can get an LSD installed for a bit over 1k. But I have no idea about this sort of stuff.

Edited by juzz88
Will do mate. Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.

Edit: Just smsed the seller as talking about diffs all day got me curious and I had to know.

Quote from the seller: It's a full automatic. It's been in the car for 3 years and it was purchased for $3500.

Sound right? $3500 sounds a bit high considering Rolls said you can get an LSD installed for a bit over 1k. But I have no idea about this sort of stuff.

Maybe he was talking about the engine conversion? Or perhaps it is an automatic locker eg a detroit or lock right locker which acts like an open wheeler around the street but when you put your boot into it it locks completely, fairly dangerous as if it locks mid corner it will throw the balance off kicking the back out if you aren't used to it. Useful for drag racing and offroading but in a street car it would be dicey, that and for less you can get a proper LSD.

Also re the 1.5 and 2way diffs, I thought a 2 way diff was actually cheaper as it is less parts, just clutch packs, where as a 1.5way has to do some fancy stuff so that it locks less on de-acceleration. Eg most standard clutch pack diffs, eg GTR, HR31, commodore etc are all 2 way diffs. Someone feel free to correct me though.

edit: Personally it just sounds more and more dicey though as he most likely just doesn't have a clue about the car and made the figure up.

Edited by Rolls

Yeah I have no idea how you could spend 3500 on a diff either. Looking at a few websites, you can buy a Nismo 1.5 or 2 way diff for $1500. Surely installation isn't double that? Then again that $1500 may not include shipping.

The other thing is, the diff was put in by the previous owner. So he was told that it was $3500 by the guy he bought it off. Apparently the diff was only put in a few months before he bought it.

I'm keeping an eye on the For Sale section here too, just haven't found any 96 Skylines or later in Melbourne that I wanna go have a look at yet.

Why does it have to be 96, there are plenty of good condition older skylines around, quite a few with the rb25 swap as well.

I like the look of the Series II's better, I want dual airbags and I just had a 92 Prelude, I'd like a bit of a newer car. Dad wouldn't be too happy if I bought too old of a car either. lol

hey justin il sell you mine, its never been tracked before...dont mind the pic below :P

Hahahaha. It doesn't bother me if a car has been tracked before, as long as everything is still in good nick. Hell, I plan on taking my Skyline (when I get one) to the track, so it would be hypocritical of me to not want to buy one that has been tracked before.

Calder is right around the corner from my house, so I can see myself heading over there quite a bit. :D

i got dual airbags in my 95 model...

cant do shit at calder either.. drag at best.

Still I like the look of the SIIs better. Although if I found a really nice 95 model I'd probably go have a look.

Drag is good enough for me to start off with. I won't have the balls to take it sideways for a while lol.

I like the look of the Series II's better, I want dual airbags and I just had a 92 Prelude, I'd like a bit of a newer car. Dad wouldn't be too happy if I bought too old of a car either. lol

Hahahaha. It doesn't bother me if a car has been tracked before, as long as everything is still in good nick. Hell, I plan on taking my Skyline (when I get one) to the track, so it would be hypocritical of me to not want to buy one that has been tracked before.

Calder is right around the corner from my house, so I can see myself heading over there quite a bit. :P

well, tbh mine is in great nick, i might be selling it if i lose my license next week..its just done 100,000k getting its major done this week, making 220kw atw

well, tbh mine is in great nick, i might be selling it if i lose my license next week..its just done 100,000k getting its major done this week, making 220kw atw

PM me if you lose your licence then lol. You don't have a problem with a stateroads check do you?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...