Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

GTR arrived back from Willall yesterday morning. I didnt have 2 days to spare right now so I had it trucked back.

Initial thoughts on the new power..... "scary fast"...the thing builds revs like a bike.

Having all wheel drive, 100% grip and 622hp the at the wheels is insane.

Anyway...I though I would try and sneak a run at WSID tonight even though I had been booted 12 months ago for running under 11.00

Went through with no issues. First run the launch didnt feel clean so I jumped on the brakes after half track for a 12.5 @ 60mph

Second run launch felt better but was still off the pace (should be doing mid 1.6s) with a 1.78 60 foot but I stayed on it for a 10.62 @ 134.81mph...bye bye Charlie for me...again.

Very happy with the MPH...means she is making good power, the crap 60 foot did my ET no favors.

Bring on the Snowy Mountains 1000...and litre bike hunting :-)

And thanks to Martin @ Willall for all of the work and the perfect tune in a very short time frame :cheers:

gtr1111.jpg

gtr1112.jpg

Car looks great Kev and its good to see you are having some fun with it! Any other plans for it or happy with how it is for a while?

Cale

Thanks Mate...that will be it for a while. I have a few things on my plate right now that consume money even faster than an R35.

Edited by Speedah

Hey Kev, nice progressive power, all the way to the top.

1000NM on tap all the way to 7000 rpm.Good job by Martin.

Mid 130’s is a good trap speed, 106 at ½ track is very good.

Drop 60’ by a few 10th’s will drop the time to low 10, but good 60” is hit and miss at wsid, unless well prepped. What rpm launch?

I love the 335 rubber; Good move, as I think the stock 285 rubber would struggle.

I'm only driving my car 1 day in every 7-10 days, but when i do I call it GTR therapy!

Brian

Hey Kev, nice progressive power, all the way to the top. 1000NM on tap all the way to 7000 rpm.Good job by Martin. Mid 130’s is a good trap speed, 106 at ½ track is very good. Drop 60’ by a few 10th’s will drop the time to low 10, but good 60” is hit and miss at wsid, unless well prepped. What rpm launch? I love the 335 rubber; Good move, as I think the stock 285 rubber would struggle. I'm only driving my car 1 day in every 7-10 days, but when i do I call it GTR therapy! Brian

I launched at 4000rpm

Willalls 2012 R35 did a 10.30 with the same MPH as me....but he did a 1.59 60

What pisses me off is playing with the launch control on the street I see 0-100km/h in 2.9 sec on my vbox. On the 10.6 run I did 3.4 secs 0-100

I will post the in car video tomorrow

great times Kev, i think theres another tenth or 2 in it though on the strip

im heading to heathcote soon, and plan to use the vbox to monitor my run, if i get a good 0-100 ill stay on it, if not just roll through the traps

Yes, if your 0-100 is above 3.1 get off it after half track.

See you at Cooma

Hey Kev, looks good for Time Attack street class next year. Now that it looks like some of our wrx's will not be allowed to race because of the wider fenders, your power level is a step from Marek's, and could be very competitive, although it is getting tougher. Time to break 1:40 at EC.

Son David will volunteer to drive if you don't want to drive (lol). He's pestering me to upgrade my R35, so he can drive it!

Brian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...