Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 months later...

Hi ho Hi ho....its off to Willal I go...

Jumped in my car yesterday after having driven it 1/2 an hour earlier with no hint of what was to come.

Started it, shift to reverse, dash lights up like a Christmas tree with faults and throttle input does nothing...car wont move.

AWD system fault light is on (see top right below) along with check engine light.

trans1.jpg

Plugged in my Access Port and found code P0847

trans2.jpg

Had a look at the GTR service manual...code is the following...

trans3.png

Shit....doesn't sound good

Called Martin at Willall....common problem, factory pressure sensors shit themselves. There are 3 in the transmission and are not accessible.

Needs trans/diff removal and transmission disassembly to repair. I have my suspicions that the sensor is actually OK and the pressure is in fact low from a blown seal.

What pisses me off is that this failure has nothing to do with any mods to the car...it happens to bone stock R35s. If my car was stock I could take it to Nissan and they would replace the complete transmission under warranty.

So, car is being shipped to Willal on Friday...while the trans is out will do some bullet proofing mods.

All going well Im hoping to travel from Adelaide to Melbourne Saturday 2nd Feb, stay the night and have some runs at Heathcote drags on the Sunday (there are a few R35s going for runs). Heathcote allows sub 11 sec passes with no cage...will be good to have a play with different levels of the launch control and better my single pass 10.62 at WSID

This is the first and only fault I have had with the car in 2.5 years and I have absolutely flogged the arse out of this thing....cant complain

Pretty standard failure. Talking to a few of the boys who do some work here on the West coast, they all seem to do it between 25,000-40,000kms. Sounds like you got to the very limit of age / kms before they let go.

'South Side Performance' now do complete plug-and-play sensors for the R35 as it's such a common problem.

They're only $200. Your biggest expense will be labour:

http://www.sspperformance.com/product/gr6-transmission-pressure-sensors-/

hope you can make it to Heathcote Kev

seeing what you can run with mod'd turbos vs my full bolt on stock turbo same day same track will be a great comparison for everyone (including myself) who is on the fence whether to take that next step

great opportunity to upgrade the trans - im still on the fence whether to do this as preventative or wait till something goes wrong

Speedah did you try the Warranty path with Nissan???

Also another thing, what did the 2011 front end conversion set you back??? I'm considering doing this myself with my 2010

Yes, I talked to someone at Macarther Nissan who was very helpful...told him the full story. He explained the proceedure they have to go through to gain approval (from Japan I assume). Short story is the car would be there for a week or two while they diagnose/wait for a decision then I would be charged $600/$700 to then to say they can't help me.

Im not too worried...I would rather put parts in it that dont fail. I was very fortunate that it happned inside my workshop. A week ago I was driving in the Sydney City centre during peak hour...I dont know WTF I would have done if it decided to pack it in there.

Edited by Speedah

hope you can make it to Heathcote Kev

seeing what you can run with mod'd turbos vs my full bolt on stock turbo same day same track will be a great comparison for everyone (including myself) who is on the fence whether to take that next step

great opportunity to upgrade the trans - im still on the fence whether to do this as preventative or wait till something goes wrong

Ill be there...try and round up as many R35s as you can.

Stock wheels back on for Willal trip no. 2

trans5.jpg

Ready to go. (car has now been delivered to Willal)

trans4.jpg

If you need to transport your car from Wollongong/Sydney area interstate by someone that actually cares Mick is the man. Some of you may be familiar with his 7.4sec Torana MV454

mv454.png

I seriously hate transport companies all together. While I didn't have issues with CEVA, I had a fuel contamination issue a few weeks back and the GTR had to be tray back transported to Moorooka Nissan for draining. I made sure I taped up the front lip (2 layers) just in case it was scratched. Sure enough, the tape was fully scuffed when I picked it up from Nissan the next day. Luckily there was no damage.

The transport used was the GTR Roadside Assist preferred - Wilson Transport - in Brisbane. I do not recommend them, nor will ever use them again!

Edited by Wardski

Have they fixed this pressure sensor problem in the later model R35's?

Nup. Transmissions are almost identical in that regard all the way to 2013. With all GT-R's its not a matter of if it will happen, its more like, when it will happen :P

Edited by Wardski

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...