Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No. And I'd be more concerned about the amount of time and money you will have to invest in the next 2 years continuously repairing it when it cracks.

Exactly!!!! I told the seller the exact same thing that it would not work and I heard about manifolds like this cracking all the time. He assured me it wasn't so and that this would work on a split one.

I the last month, we have replaced 3 such manifolds due to massive overboosting issues. I would get a refund and invest in a well made manifold to suit your application. You will also need a decent sized wastegate, something like a turbosmart 50mm. Spend a little bit more money once and you will reap the benefits in reliability, response and also power.

Yeah of course it will work. But it's not going to utilise the split pulse to it's full advantage

I know it will work, but I mean as efficiently as a split.

I the last month, we have replaced 3 such manifolds due to massive overboosting issues. I would get a refund and invest in a well made manifold to suit your application. You will also need a decent sized wastegate, something like a turbosmart 50mm. Spend a little bit more money once and you will reap the benefits in reliability, response and also power.

No I didn't buy one I was just looking into it and didn't agree with somethings he was trying to tell me, so I came here for more opinions and direction.

Thanks man this forum is the best.

I the last month, we have replaced 3 such manifolds due to massive overboosting issues. I would get a refund and invest in a well made manifold to suit your application. You will also need a decent sized wastegate, something like a turbosmart 50mm. Spend a little bit more money once and you will reap the benefits in reliability, response and also power.

this and all the stupid high mount SR20 ones.... all junk.

I think you'll find there will be a mismatch....split pulse turbo housings have a different footprint to an open housings (split pulse are wider to account for the divider). Therefore, there will be a mismatch when you bolt on a split pulse turbo to a single scroll manifold flange. Have a look at the back of a Garrett catalogue for the measurements and you will see what I mean.

Edited by juggernaut1

this manifold lasted 3 1/4 mile runs running 10.1 @ 135mph, then I replaced it with another one, detuned for street went to calder park, done 4 runs on 24psi and it cracked again. spent $1350 for a custom split pulse 6boost manifold and never looked back. I lost over 1k fixing and upgrading this stainless steel pos. stay away if you want big power

For those manifolds you need to:

1x slot 2x bolt wholes in the center so they can fit your engine head.

2x Machine the manifold faces flate or they will keep on blowing your gasket

3x Re-enforced the welds at the collector.

It will workd fine after all that. Unless you can do all that your self, or it Cost more then the actual manifold.

You can spec the manifold in T3 split or T4 split. I would use a 1.06 T4 split housing on an RB25. Althought the housings from ATP aren't the greatest castings - so will probably need a little tidy up if you can be bothered. Someone on this forum used a T3 .78 split on an RB26 (can't remember name) with a GT35 and got close to 400rwkw.

Edited by juggernaut1
they dont have a different footprint, ive got a t4 flanged non split pulse manifold with a split pulse t04z and they line up perfectly the actual size of the flange is the same

Are you using it like this?

A single entry manifold mated to a twin scroll turbo is bound to cause some serious restrictions.

I would use a 1.06 T4 split housing on an RB25. Althought the housings from ATP aren't the greatest castings - so will probably need a little tidy up if you can be bothered.

just finished fitting myne and it was the hardest job i've ever done, the physical size of the housing makes doing up housing bolts and oil/water feeds near impossible, ended up having to leave one of the compressor housing bolts out because even when fully tightened it fouled on the turbine housing flange in the position i need it. the design leaves a little to be desired but it should work alright, will see how it goes shortly.

they dont have a different footprint, ive got a t4 flanged non split pulse manifold with a split pulse t04z and they line up perfectly the actual size of the flange is the same

T3 split & T3 open have a different footprint.

Edited by juggernaut1
  • 4 weeks later...

Hey there just want a definitive answers from people who have tried and what there suggestion is and why.

I have re posted to ask a quick question, I already have a 35r and was wondering to get 350-380rwkw what would you guys go with t3 or t4 split pulse and what back housing .82 or 1.06? Right now I am on full boost by 4200-4500 which is laggy to me, use to running with a stock turbo, and would like for it to either remain there or make boost sooner. Just do not want it to be laggier.

So what combo would you guys suggest?

What housing and power do you currently have??

I haven't seen the combo on an RB25 myself but from what I have seen on other cars I'd go with a 1.06a/r T4 Twin scroll housing... I am guessing you have a .82a/r hot side from that spool level, so maybe shift that to around 3800-4200rpm range for a twin scroll setup with generally more torque as it builds boost and more midrange at full boost. Just a semi-educated guess...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...