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When i said "RH9" cars i didnt mean the Australian RH9 car i meant the jap ones, also the reason i am on a public forum is to find out from people who know what they are talking about if they know anyone that can make me the crank, im not here for people opinions if i was id be at the pub

Jordan

Well ive been in and driven a friend GTR that made 530kw on CRD dyno's it has a trust 6 speed dog box, it had a T88-34D that came on boost at 5,000rpm sure it didnt drive like a Falcon or Magna but if i wanted it to id buy one of those.

Street driveable all comes down to what the driver classes as driveable if you want to race on the street where everyone says that run this time or make this much power then so be it you need mid range power but im not after that im after bone crushing performance on the track that i can drive on the street when i want to.

Regarding getting it street legal if you build it with an engineer you will be suprised what you can get street registered i will have a roll cage and it will be engineered as street legal

Jordan

Huge cams, huge injectors, little power at bottom end, high stall converters/dog boxes - all make for a not so friendly road car, slug down low, and when they come on song, go nuts.

:)

We late model import mob are a soft breed :D

10-15 years ago 2,000rpm idles were the norm for a hi-po rotor, 4/6 cylinders, solid centre clutches and webers, heaven forbid you had a turbo with a blow thru setup and no intercooler.

These days we expect no less then factory idle and driveability from our steeds :D

Street driveable all comes down to what the driver classes as driveable

Jordan

Where talking in a normal world - not the same if your in your 20's racing everything on the street

im after bone crushing performance on the track that i can drive on the street when i want to.

See, when u say this its when people say a 30k + motor (am i near the ball park here in cost?) won't last. How long do hi-po motors last these days? Or are u going to have a line of motors ready to drop in? Track work, strip, and regular street travelling is a huge amount of wear on an engine.

Regarding getting it street legal if you build it with an engineer you will be suprised what you can get street registered
not in Adelaide u cant :)
Where talking in a normal world - not the same if your in your 20's racing everything on the street

 

 

See, when u say this its when people say a 30k + motor (am i near the ball park here in cost?) won't last. How long do hi-po motors last these days?  Or are u going to have a line of motors ready to drop in? Track work, strip, and regular street travelling is a huge amount of wear on an engine.

 

 

not in Adelaide u cant :)

Its a crime to be in the 20s these days :D

Interested why you think such an engine wont last too long when used on the street. Any street driving would have to be off boost courtesy of the engines power band so as long as water and oil temps are fine whats the problem. Boost in 1st/2nd gear is automatic loss of licence in NSW!

What components are likely to fail/wear in the engine, essentially bearing right, so on the street where the thing isnt being revved or boosted how does this significantly contribute to wear???

That said 1/4mile runs ok, i can see what you are saying about engine life. But i dont think the 200-500kms a month driving to/from events is an issue from an engine reliability perspective.

Jordan, I'll say it again, I would like to see you do it, good luck

And regarding what you can get legal, the big problem is emissions - with big cams comes poor emissions, with big injectors comes poor idle. Both of which will be exposed on a drive cycle test, which you guys have over there

once again, good luck

and here is a thought, why not drop RIPS a pm, he is getting 10s from a GT4 with one of his 3L jobs, and that is without forged pistons etc - perhaps he has a package, or bits along the line you are searching for.

Cheers guys apreciate everyones input ive found what i needed to know and i will let you know how i go by the way Nizpro said i should have the most power RB engine in Australia with a Engine Dyno to prove it, so until someone has more than me on an engine dyno il be happy

Jordan

Roy, im just stating if u wanted a large hp motor (by DESCR8's desription are we talking 1000+ hp) why spend 30k + on a motor if u want to de-tune it for the street.

And with comments like

Cheers guys apreciate everyones input ive found what i needed to know and i will let you know how i go by the way Nizpro said i should have the most power RB engine in Australia with a Engine Dyno to prove it, so until someone has more than me on an engine dyno il be happy

it seems someone wants to be Dyno/Strip/Street Queen. Mines bigger than yours :)

PS id love to see it when it happens, and dyno figures.

Descr8,

Congrats mate for having a go at doin something even when the odds(and opinions) are against you. I thoroughly believe you can achieve what your setting out to do otherwise I would be wasting my money on my build.

To be original or a leader in a pack usually means doin it alone. Once again congratulations and I truly hope you achieve it mate.

Paul

PS: When you find someone who does custom cranks, could you please PM me?

Cheers guys apreciate everyones input ive found what i needed to know and i will let you know how i go by the way Nizpro said i should have the most power RB engine in Australia with a Engine Dyno to prove it, so until someone has more than me on an engine dyno il be happy

Jordan

Hey jordan, i was just wondering what gearbox you are going to run behind this monster of yours? I'm also building an rb30/rb26 combo, although only with a T78-33D, but i've been told that the extra torque from the 3L is going to kill the stock box, and after talking to a few others apparently trust and hks 6 speeds don't like the extra torque as well. Have you decided on a box yet or are you still looking into it???

any insight would be great, thanks mate!

Cheers

Luke

Hi Aphex, we have used standard GTR boxes up to 650 bhp and 550 ft lbs of torque with no problems. That's a pretty strong RB30/26 and pretty close to the limit of a T78-33D. If the box is in good nick, with good oil in it and you don't treat it bad, it should be fine.

Over that and we see regular 3rd gear damage, just from the shear toque loadings and RPM, strips the teeth right off in std GTR boxes and Trust 6 speeds as well. We have then used Hollinger sequentials exclusively ($20K). The new box GTR from Pfitzner looks pretty good at $8K for up to 800 bhp and $10K for over 800 bhp, but I have no experience with those (yet). I understand Guru/Modena are working on a 6 speed sequential which (judging by their RX7 boxes) should be OK as well.

Obviously there are a number of autos around that will do the job, Hugo's are popular for VL's. Personally I don't think it's a real GTR without a manual. But auto's and drags do go together very well.

Hope that helps

Hi Aphex, we have used standard GTR boxes up to 650 bhp and 550 ft lbs of torque with no problems.  That's a pretty strong RB30/26 and pretty close to the limit of a T78-33D.  If the box is in good nick, with good oil in it and you don't treat it bad, it should be fine.

Over that and we see regular 3rd gear damage, just from the shear toque loadings and RPM, strips the teeth right off in std GTR boxes and Trust 6 speeds as well.  We have then used Hollinger sequentials exclusively ($20K).  The new box GTR from Pfitzner looks pretty good at $8K for up to 800 bhp and $10K for over 800 bhp, but I have no experience with those (yet).  I understand Guru/Modena are working on a 6 speed sequential which (judging by their RX7 boxes) should be OK as well.

Obviously there are a number of autos around that will do the job, Hugo's are popular for VL's.  Personally I don't think it's a real GTR without a manual.  But auto's and drags do go together very well.

Hope that helps

Thanks Sydneykid, at the moment i'll see how the stock box goes and other than that i'm looking very closely at an OS Giken cross gear set. I'm going to try and keep it as street friendly as possible, so if i can avoid the 20K bill for a hollinger i will. Also being primarily a street car, spending maybe 5% or less of the time on a track of some sort i want to see if i can stay as close to a stock box as possible, so an OS gear set sounds like a great idea to me.

Have tested Pfitzner's dog box in my street R33. Very tough, awesome clutchless changes.

Have not tested at track as yet, but Theo from Bris street machines has the box in his car for the 4,6&rotor nats next weekend. I think the extra money over the OS box is warranted

providing you can put up with a dog box for day to day driving( these things will scare pedestrians when u drive past while changing!!!) Much better than the Trust 6 speed in my opinion, & less than 1/2 the price of the sequential Holinger.

Will see if theo blows it up next weekend - if not will definately put new one in my street R33. No synchros is a pain in traffic, but wicked when you want to hammer - nothing like it.

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