Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by fatz

just saw the front spliter for r32/33.. the thing above the gril and onthe bonet. the kunts r charging 200 for that i say we do it for 70-90

Any pics of this? I can't think of what goes above the grill and on the bonet.

:confused:

err, i'm a little confused. Are there more bits to the splitter under the bonnet to direct air around or is that it?

I haven't seen one before but I'm guessing that it has a practical use. If its for show, just reply with the word "rice". :)

Its simple aero dynamics, by increasing the angle at which the air is forced over the bonnet, a temporary vaccumn (assuming the only airflow into the area is created by air moving from in front of the car into the car) is created on top of the bonnet in front of the windshield.

This is the theory behind the bug shield... by putting that little lip on the bonnet you divert airflow OVER the windshield instead of straight onto, and therefore pushing any bugs that are flying towards you over the windshield instead of straight into you.

It also looks cool, coz it looks like a stock GTR.

im dazed and a little confuzzled now :)

which parts are we getting done now???

-Front Lip

-Bonnet Splitter

-GTR Guards

-GTR Front Bar

-Rear boot lip

what else? :)

Put me down for the rear lip and front lip... and any side skirts that may be done too :D

****edit

oh yeah and...

how much for the GTR Front Guards?

Wow, hadn't noticed that splitter on r32s before. Had a look around and here are pics of them on GTRs:

http://www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/skyline...ics/r32no73.jpg

http://www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/skyline...pics/r32no4.jpg

Looks like R33s GTRs don't have them stock:

http://www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/skyline...ics/r33no81.jpg

But some race GTRs use them:

http://www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/skyline...ics/r33no71.jpg

Adds 400hp hey... put me down for one :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...