Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, anyone else joined a FSAE team somewhere? I'm part of the Victoria University one. My role is engine/drivetrain development, and there is a slaughterfest for driver later at a karting place which I will be competing in (so any tips are welcome lol). Just want to open some discussions :ermm:

For those who don't know what it is: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Formula_SAE

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336379-formula-sae/
Share on other sites

There is an abundance of SAE research available on the web. From my experience, not many papers have been of much use since they are always so specific to a componant and to their particular car. I read an interesting article on ackerman steering and their derivation of steering geometry once but the good ones have been few and far between.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336379-formula-sae/#findComment-5442994
Share on other sites

Heh, we are still in the early planning stage of it so no pics or videos as of yet :D

Also good to see some people or some people who know other people who are doing it lol.

Not an easy task as there are more than 100 pages dedicated to rules of entering, and strict inspections.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336379-formula-sae/#findComment-5444429
Share on other sites

Niceee! I'm guessing you guys competed last year / this year? Our kart got stolen so we are starting from scratch :P

We are in a massive disadvantage with fundings, how did you guys get sponsors etc? Our budget is lying around $25k :D We used the CBR 250 RR engine where as other unis (eg. Monash) were using CBR 600 RR engines lol... (40hp compared to 80hp).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336379-formula-sae/#findComment-5445863
Share on other sites

Myself and one of my mates are the team leaders of Team Swinburne Electric, based in Hawthorn.

Its the first year the uni has built a proper electric race car, and proudly we are competing in the first ever electric class at the SAE comp this year.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336379-formula-sae/#findComment-5445865
Share on other sites

Well that's not for me to finalize but the previous years we have used either the Honda CBR 250 RRs or the Yamaha YZF-R6 so we may use that again. Still very early on in the design process, roles have been handed out and we just had a briefing on previous FSAEs and strategies.

We should be using a rear wheel drivetrain as per usual, but some people have brought up an AWD drivetrain similar in function to the GTRs to be more unique or experiment (doubt it will get far lol). As for transmission, there have been ideas of 2 speeds going round but i will debate on at least a 4 speed to keep the torque up ;)

We are not competing this year but do expect the ultimate challenger in 2012 :D

Edited by TyresBro
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336379-formula-sae/#findComment-5449236
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

There's a lot of teams using the CBR600RR, that would be one reason to choose it, the amount of knowledge around. Not sure what the difference is in terms of performance. Remember you have to run a restricter, which completely changes any torque curves and anything else to do with performance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336379-formula-sae/#findComment-5482558
Share on other sites

Well that's not for me to finalize but the previous years we have used either the Honda CBR 250 RRs or the Yamaha YZF-R6 so we may use that again. Still very early on in the design process, roles have been handed out and we just had a briefing on previous FSAEs and strategies.

We should be using a rear wheel drivetrain as per usual, but some people have brought up an AWD drivetrain similar in function to the GTRs to be more unique or experiment (doubt it will get far lol). As for transmission, there have been ideas of 2 speeds going round but i will debate on at least a 4 speed to keep the torque up :P

We are not competing this year but do expect the ultimate challenger in 2012 :down:

AWD's against the regulations dude, car has to be RWD, open wheeler.

Our car has the CBR600 motor in it too, mounted on a transaxle in the rear obviously, carbon fiber shell, carbon intake manifold, mountain bike shocks and hundreds of man hours of engine dyno time and suspension tuning.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336379-formula-sae/#findComment-5482589
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...