C210 - Dyno

[Socrates]

I'm putting my C210 on a dyno for a power run this sunday with the local cruising club in Perth "West Coast Cruisers".

I want to know the max rpm the car should be revved to, i've only ever gone to 6000-6250 when driving. Is that as far as i should take it?

Specs.

Stock internal L24, unopened only for headgasket in early 1980s).

Planed head (early 1980s).

Single, double barrell hitachi carburettor (standard).

Standard airfilter and air box/intake.

NGK BP6ES spark plugs @ 0.8mm.

2inch free flowing exhaust with extractors.

Standard Gearbox, worn synchros.

Standard diff, worn pinion bearings.

195/65R14 tyres, standard 14x5.5in rims.

Thanks

[Silent Shadow]

Man i was so close to dyno-ing mine last year. Keen to see what you get!

Mine has a very obvious power drop around the 5.5-6k mark. Well not a power drop, it just doesnt pull any harder. And the tappets start to sound loud around 6.5k rpm. So yea i wouldnt bother goin any more than that personally.

Post vid and dyno sheet for sure man. And have fun!

[FJ20DR30]

Im not sure you will get a choice on what it gets reved to?, the guy using the dyno will usually take it to red line so you get a power curve print out, Im not saying this is the case every time but its always been like that when ive done them.

just make sure you have plenty of oil in it id say over fill it by half a liter and it will be just fine there a strong old engine.

[Socrates]

my car has "yellow" line from 6000 - 6500 then Red from 6000 - 8000.

I don't want the dyno dude doing an 8000, it's just too much for the car and with the stock radiator fan 4000+ sounds like an airoplane.

according to engine plate max power is made at 5600rpm anyway, so going 6500 i think would all it'd really need.

Thanks cam, does yours have aftermarket radiator fan?

[Factory 5]

In my bog-stock L24e auto, I scored 53kW at the wheels, so it you top this with your exhaust and manual trans, let me know!!!

at for redline, I wrecked another R30 a few months ago, kept all the goodies. But before that i too wondered what the redline was... so I spent the next 40 minutes bouncing off 7000 rpm and doing HARD shifts, generally TRYING to break it. damn thing just kept going... I ended up running out of fuel.

Pulled it all apart over the next 6 months and the insides were fine, still had the factory honing marks in the cylinders, even had factory head gasket!

bloody tough buggers.

a few minutes on the dyno wont hurt it! just keep your tyre pressures up, and clean fresh air coming in the intake.

[Socrates]

i'll post up the dyno graph when i get it done.

i've got 35 psi in the above mentioned tyres, is that good?

i would suspect that the automatic was robbing power from the engine and that's good news about how high they can rev, it's just so loud from 4k +, one of the reasons I'm going twin thermo fans.

[DR JOSH]

my car has "yellow" line from 6000 - 6500 then Red from 6000 - 8000.

I don't want the dyno dude doing an 8000, it's just too much for the car and with the stock radiator fan 4000+ sounds like an airoplane.

according to engine plate max power is made at 5600rpm anyway, so going 6500 i think would all it'd really need.

Thanks cam, does yours have aftermarket radiator fan?

It'll be fine, on a power run the dyno operator will only rev it till it starts dropping power and that will be way before it gets even close to 8000rpm probably closer to 5000-5500rpm on an L-block

Be warned if you've never had you car on a dyno before it can be worrysome watching it stand up for the first time

[Silent Shadow]

Yea im running a thermo fan bro. The engine fan drove me nuts! It was louder than the exhaust ay.

Dont worry about tyre pressures too much. 35 should be fine seriously.

And when i put my silvia on the dyno, i had to tell the operator what rpm he did on the runs. That way he was not liable for blowing up the engine by over-revving.

[BensDR30]

In my bog-stock L24e auto, I scored 53kW at the wheels, so it you top this with your exhaust and manual trans, let me know!!!

at for redline, I wrecked another R30 a few months ago, kept all the goodies. But before that i too wondered what the redline was... so I spent the next 40 minutes bouncing off 7000 rpm and doing HARD shifts, generally TRYING to break it. damn thing just kept going... I ended up running out of fuel.

Pulled it all apart over the next 6 months and the insides were fine, still had the factory honing marks in the cylinders, even had factory head gasket!

bloody tough buggers.

a few minutes on the dyno wont hurt it! just keep your tyre pressures up, and clean fresh air coming in the intake.

My old 200000km old L24E MR30 auto managed 62kW at the wheels, so expect something between 50-70 depending on how tired she is.

[Socrates]

Dyno day today!

[Socrates]

All done.

Max Power: 80.5rwhp - 60rwkw

Max torque: 408lb. (Is that the same as ft-Lb?)

4th Gear to 6000rpm.

Dyno sheet:

[Factory 5]

Good stuff!!!

'lb' is Motive Force, and my 370lb converts to 100NM ( i still think its wrong though, goes hard as i reckon!)

[Ten Four]

^Confused, how do you convert no NM?

[DR JOSH]

You can take chassis dyno torque figures with a grain of salt, only real way to get torque figures is on an engine dyno.

[coupe72001]

My C210 recently ran 135hp (and 750 motive forces?) on a dyno dynamics dyno in Melbourne. Drivetrain losses and dyno innaccuracies aside apparently around 200hp at the fly.

[Socrates]

that's the fuel injected white one hey?

[coupe72001]

Fuel injecton is way too complex for me. 3 dellortos hanging off an L28.