Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

i was searching the forum for such information but i can't find it .......

currently i have just completed my rebuild of my RB26 engine, spec are below

RaceTech 86.5 mm piston

TOMEI 1.5mm @ 87mm metal head gasket with oil restrictor

Jun Oil Pump

Balance crank, piston, rod, clutch, main pulley

Refresh Standard Head

HKS step 1 IN/EX 264 cam

Jun Cam gear

BC valve spring

Greddy type 6 throttle intake manifold

SARD 720cc injector

HKS type fuel rail

Tomei Fuel regulator

Garrett GT35R AR1.06 split type

aftermarket ex manifold split type

Tial 44mm ex wastegate

Power FC D Jetro

ETC ETC...

i was hoping to make 550whp - 600whp. i am not sure whether i be at that mark or not.

Would I?

The main question i wan to find out is that would a single SARD / HKS 280lph in tank pump would be sufficient for such targeted 550whp - 600whp.

Would i need 2 Walbro 255lph for such WHP?

IF 2 Walbro would i need to run 2 6AN fuel line to the front of my car? or a single 6AN will do?

So sorry for such question which i believe thousand of ppl have asked . i was hoping to keep my budget low but i believe WHP doesn't come cheap so i would need to optimize my $$$$

Cheers

DC

You will struggle to come close to 600rwhp (440rwkw) on PULP with a GT35.

550rwhp is probably the upper limit there.

If you want a jap pump, a nismo or similar will be fine.

Otherwise a big bosch will also do. Forget wasting time with walbro fuel pumps.

From what I know the good jap pumps (nismo, sard etc) run out of puff at the 450rwkw mark. Have seen a couple of setups with that sort of number who could not go further due to their fuel system.

one pump fuel you should be able to see you max out the 35R. a Nismo/Tomei replacement pump or a single Bosch 044, thought thats getting to the point where a surge tank isnt a bad idea.

wow i was tired when i posted that.

one pump should be enough to see you max out the 35R. a Nismo/Tomei replacement pump or a single Bosch 044, thought thats getting to the point where a surge tank isnt a bad idea.

From what I know the good jap pumps (nismo, sard etc) run out of puff at the 450rwkw mark. Have seen a couple of setups with that sort of number who could not go further due to their fuel system.

How about the bosch 040 and 044 fuel pumps, when do they normally run out of puff?

one pump fuel you should be able to see you max out the 35R. a Nismo/Tomei replacement pump or a single Bosch 044, thought thats getting to the point where a surge tank isnt a bad idea.

wanted to put the surge tank but ust afraid that the whole car will smell like fuel.......

wanted to put the surge tank but ust afraid that the whole car will smell like fuel.......

its not really the surge tank that makes the smell, more the fittings associated with it.

my engine build is going for around 600hp as well and ill be using twin pumps and a surge tank, ill be using all solid steel lines instead of braided to lessen the smell of fuel.

  • 4 weeks later...

Mount it under the car.

2x Bosch 044's will suit you well and provide more than adequate fuel, use a low psi lifter pump like a Carter Gold and a 2.5lt surge tank will fit.

I have run this system on my car for over 2 years, speedflow fittings all around and braided lines, I never smell fuel however the Bosch 044's do get noisy when the fuel gets hot.

Also beware of ebay and people trying to sell knock-off 044's you want the Genuine Bosch not some chinese copy.

In an rb25 R33 we made 604rwhp on a GT35R with 1.06AR, but had to use E85 to get it there. That is the highest we have had from a GT35R. The same car makes 535hp on 21psi on pump.

We are making over 1200rwhp+ with 2x GT35R's on a 20B Triple rotor.

Initial run in tune netted just under 1000rwhp @ only 21psi.

We have pushed the GT35R's to 38psi, figure was good but not giving away any secrets, car is in the 7 second quarter mile club now... only running 28x9 tyres and still untubbed.

This is tuning with the big boys though... M800 with 90% Methanol mix.

Edited by Parag0n

If you don't want to run a surge tank, try a 040 intank then an 044 in series... mount the 044 under the car and use the stock fuel lines. I'd also suggest running the 044 from a speed controller/pwm.

Or use your stock fuel pump to feed an undercar surge tank, and use a single good quality fuel pump such as a weldon a2005-a or 2015-a.

Or use your stock fuel pump to feed an undercar surge tank, and use a single good quality fuel pump such as a weldon a2005-a or 2015-a.

Have you used a Weldon pump; they look awesome!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...