Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

i was searching the forum for such information but i can't find it .......

currently i have just completed my rebuild of my RB26 engine, spec are below

RaceTech 86.5 mm piston

TOMEI 1.5mm @ 87mm metal head gasket with oil restrictor

Jun Oil Pump

Balance crank, piston, rod, clutch, main pulley

Refresh Standard Head

HKS step 1 IN/EX 264 cam

Jun Cam gear

BC valve spring

Greddy type 6 throttle intake manifold

SARD 720cc injector

HKS type fuel rail

Tomei Fuel regulator

Garrett GT35R AR1.06 split type

aftermarket ex manifold split type

Tial 44mm ex wastegate

Power FC D Jetro

ETC ETC...

i was hoping to make 550whp - 600whp. i am not sure whether i be at that mark or not.

Would I?

The main question i wan to find out is that would a single SARD / HKS 280lph in tank pump would be sufficient for such targeted 550whp - 600whp.

Would i need 2 Walbro 255lph for such WHP?

IF 2 Walbro would i need to run 2 6AN fuel line to the front of my car? or a single 6AN will do?

So sorry for such question which i believe thousand of ppl have asked . i was hoping to keep my budget low but i believe WHP doesn't come cheap so i would need to optimize my $$$$

Cheers

DC

You will struggle to come close to 600rwhp (440rwkw) on PULP with a GT35.

550rwhp is probably the upper limit there.

If you want a jap pump, a nismo or similar will be fine.

Otherwise a big bosch will also do. Forget wasting time with walbro fuel pumps.

From what I know the good jap pumps (nismo, sard etc) run out of puff at the 450rwkw mark. Have seen a couple of setups with that sort of number who could not go further due to their fuel system.

one pump fuel you should be able to see you max out the 35R. a Nismo/Tomei replacement pump or a single Bosch 044, thought thats getting to the point where a surge tank isnt a bad idea.

wow i was tired when i posted that.

one pump should be enough to see you max out the 35R. a Nismo/Tomei replacement pump or a single Bosch 044, thought thats getting to the point where a surge tank isnt a bad idea.

From what I know the good jap pumps (nismo, sard etc) run out of puff at the 450rwkw mark. Have seen a couple of setups with that sort of number who could not go further due to their fuel system.

How about the bosch 040 and 044 fuel pumps, when do they normally run out of puff?

one pump fuel you should be able to see you max out the 35R. a Nismo/Tomei replacement pump or a single Bosch 044, thought thats getting to the point where a surge tank isnt a bad idea.

wanted to put the surge tank but ust afraid that the whole car will smell like fuel.......

wanted to put the surge tank but ust afraid that the whole car will smell like fuel.......

its not really the surge tank that makes the smell, more the fittings associated with it.

my engine build is going for around 600hp as well and ill be using twin pumps and a surge tank, ill be using all solid steel lines instead of braided to lessen the smell of fuel.

  • 4 weeks later...

Mount it under the car.

2x Bosch 044's will suit you well and provide more than adequate fuel, use a low psi lifter pump like a Carter Gold and a 2.5lt surge tank will fit.

I have run this system on my car for over 2 years, speedflow fittings all around and braided lines, I never smell fuel however the Bosch 044's do get noisy when the fuel gets hot.

Also beware of ebay and people trying to sell knock-off 044's you want the Genuine Bosch not some chinese copy.

In an rb25 R33 we made 604rwhp on a GT35R with 1.06AR, but had to use E85 to get it there. That is the highest we have had from a GT35R. The same car makes 535hp on 21psi on pump.

We are making over 1200rwhp+ with 2x GT35R's on a 20B Triple rotor.

Initial run in tune netted just under 1000rwhp @ only 21psi.

We have pushed the GT35R's to 38psi, figure was good but not giving away any secrets, car is in the 7 second quarter mile club now... only running 28x9 tyres and still untubbed.

This is tuning with the big boys though... M800 with 90% Methanol mix.

Edited by Parag0n

If you don't want to run a surge tank, try a 040 intank then an 044 in series... mount the 044 under the car and use the stock fuel lines. I'd also suggest running the 044 from a speed controller/pwm.

Or use your stock fuel pump to feed an undercar surge tank, and use a single good quality fuel pump such as a weldon a2005-a or 2015-a.

Or use your stock fuel pump to feed an undercar surge tank, and use a single good quality fuel pump such as a weldon a2005-a or 2015-a.

Have you used a Weldon pump; they look awesome!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
×
×
  • Create New...