Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so you know what im refering to well im in NZ and mine went through compliance and warrants etc and i still got it its fn awsome , full controll over my exhaust sound level

and ye it is a factory some stageas came with a few little extras :nyaanyaa:

lol factory is as it came out of the 'factory'

Nissan dealers added the 'options' when sold to a customer. so its not factory - its an optional extra. trust me, the factory exhaust is a peice of shit. lol

I got schooled about this difference between factory/option when i said my remote start was factory.

2.25 towards the end of the exhaust should make a difference to power shouldnt it? in saying your doing the rest of the exhaust 3"

Edited by AaronNM35
  • Replies 270
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

its not factory, its a dealer fitted option.

however, i agree its awesome :)

oh well the dash switch and al that looks all factory and its al nissan parts ?:unsure::huh:

any way its good just want the exhaust from there forwards to be a nice tuned straight pipe

oh well the dash switch and al that looks all factory and its al nissan parts ?:unsure::huh:

any way its good just want the exhaust from there forwards to be a nice tuned straight pipe

yeh so is my remote start. i got them to pull the battery and remote of the keys when compliance.

I wish i had one of these adjustable doo hickies! wouldve been awsome.

my car sound like a thunderstoorrmm,

lol factory is as it came out of the 'factory'

Nissan dealers added the 'options' when sold to a customer. so its not factory - its an optional extra. trust me, the factory exhaust is a peice of shit. lol

I got schooled about this difference between factory/option when i said my remote start was factory.

2.25 towards the end of the exhaust should make a difference to power shouldnt it? in saying your doing the rest of the exhaust 3"

Theres a power difference between 'Silent' and 'Sport' modes; I would say this difference would be present whether you had 2" straight through to the muffler or 3" to the muffler.

yeh so is my remote start. i got them to pull the battery and remote of the keys when compliance.

I wish i had one of these adjustable doo hickies! wouldve been awsome.

my car sound like a thunderstoorrmm,

what exhaust are you running

and so you recon 3 inch or 2.5 all the way thru is best for the stagea ?

on another note spoke to R.I.P.S (NZ local skyline experts )

after asking them for some custom work they said using my car for R+D they could make bolt on performance turbo kits , incl plenum, piping ,intercooler , throttle body , manifolds and turbo for the stagea

:worship::banana:

im guna look into the idea of not havn the wagon for a while

Theres a power difference between 'Silent' and 'Sport' modes; I would say this difference would be present whether you had 2" straight through to the muffler or 3" to the muffler.

but the heated(expanded air molecules) at the turbo dump, would be much hotter than the colder(compressed air molecules).

Wouldnt this mean that once the air is cooled down enough, the 2.25" should be an ok size right.

a 3 inch the whole way would be better. airflow = power.

finding a turbo that fits is going to fit will be a bitch. nothing else fits for us - but may well work with new manifolds(we would be interested in gated manifolds to fit)

theres a HDI FMIC kit already available, which is proving a win for most of us.

and our throttle bodies are pretty big stock!

Try and get em to do a manual 4wd conversion kit! thats something we NEED

Edited by AaronNM35

Theres a power difference between 'Silent' and 'Sport' modes; I would say this difference would be present whether you had 2" straight through to the muffler or 3" to the muffler.

fortunatly i got my compliance and warrants with the switch still active and yes it is a silence / power switch

but the heated(expanded air molecules) at the turbo dump, would be much hotter than the colder(compressed air molecules).

Wouldnt this mean that once the air is cooled down enough, the 2.25" should be an ok size right.

a 3 inch the whole way would be better. airflow = power.

finding a turbo that fits is going to fit will be a bitch. nothing else fits for us - but may well work with new manifolds(we would be interested in gated manifolds to fit)

theres a HDI FMIC kit already available, which is proving a win for most of us.

and our throttle bodies are pretty big stock!

Try and get em to do a manual 4wd conversion kit! thats something we NEED

if you got the cash just buy the factory parts from the manual stagea , i know you get one or if you google the boys from jun built a 350z 4wd using the m35 stagea drivline and all the bits etc im prety sure a vq30 manual box can be moded to suit the vq25det then just need a pedal kit

well, thats good!

it can be adapted to an apexi ECV (search ebay, about $200-200 delivered) where the cable comes out of the boot area. try not to destroy things when removing tho.

#$#$ awsome that means i can get a after market exhaust and get this , perfect get my load sound with th eoption of silencing

weird tho this unit sits up by the coverter where as mine is actually inside -part of the rear muffler

any way good find :worship:

as mine had compliance with a ECV on it i can get a aftermarcket one :thumbsup::nyaanyaa:

what exhaust are you running

and so you recon 3 inch or 2.5 all the way thru is best for the stagea ?

on another note spoke to R.I.P.S (NZ local skyline experts )

after asking them for some custom work they said using my car for R+D they could make bolt on performance turbo kits , incl plenum, piping ,intercooler , throttle body , manifolds and turbo for the stagea

:worship::banana:

im guna look into the idea of not havn the wagon for a while

Yep, ok...

Have they seen the placement of the turbo? Not that I wouldn't mind a RIPS manifold but seriously, they have enough work to last them a century, why would they want to tool up for the VQ? Not even getting started on the tuning...

Yep, ok...

Have they seen the placement of the turbo? Not that I wouldn't mind a RIPS manifold but seriously, they have enough work to last them a century, why would they want to tool up for the VQ? Not even getting started on the tuning...

I questioned rob about and if he had any experiance with doing up stageas and he said "shit loads mate"

then i said but wait its the new one with the vq25det and he went a bit quite then said "well nissan are moving away from the straight 6 platform to all using vq and vh engines so i might as well start working them"

i sad well ill bring my car down and he said " i could look at doing a full turbo kit but wil take sum time to get everything right and tuned etc "

but he is really keen to have a look

he said he can start with the easy stuf like manifold plenum etc

maybe give him the list of what we have done first and the result's we are getting then let him have a good old think. Plenum manifold would be nice though depending on the design!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...