Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts-t Skyline Shite Itself!

Sports Crazy

By Sports Crazy,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

why cant you just swap over the fuel pump? its really easy in the r32. you just open the boot, remove the carpet and its all there infront of you, the pump just lifts out too.

if your pump is making noises and you are having running problems, logic would say that it is your fuel pump dying or to at least rule it out FIRST.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

I have a tomei fuel pump, slides and plugs into stock position well and you dont have any of the pickup issues you get with the bosch. Its pretty quiet to

The downside however is that they cost about twice as much (or near enough) as the bosch pumps

The bosch pump still works well so depends. If youve got the money id get the tomei/nismo/hks (there all the same pumpe from what im told) but if your strapped for cash the bosch will be the way to go

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

I have a tomei fuel pump, slides and plugs into stock position well and you dont have any of the pickup issues you get with the bosch. Its pretty quiet to

The downside however is that they cost about twice as much (or near enough) as the bosch pumps

The bosch pump still works well so depends. If youve got the money id get the tomei/nismo/hks (there all the same pumpe from what im told) but if your strapped for cash the bosch will be the way to go

that seems to come down to how people install them. i put one in a mates 33 and he was able to get the fuel light to come on (and stay on, not just flash on for a seconds because he was going up a hill or something like that) without any fuel surge issues.

Sports Crazy Enthusiast

Sports Crazy

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Cheers for info, I'm setting a budget to spend so around the price of the 044 is maxed..... I have heard from a few race & drifters that they say go the walbro as they have been having problems with the bosch in recent times!?

If he doesn't want/know how to fit a pressure gauge, how is he going to fit a pump???

?? haha, it's ok mate, i'll be right.

Edited by Sports Crazy
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

ive had 2x044's fail on cars who have installed them in-tank. the 044 is not an in-tank pump. the 040 is.

walbro is cheaper and works really well.

ah yeah, i always get confused between the 2 (can never remember which is which). it was an 040 that i fitted in a mates 33 who had no issues.

Sports Crazy Enthusiast

Sports Crazy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ive had 2x044's fail on cars who have installed them in-tank. the 044 is not an in-tank pump. the 040 is.

walbro is cheaper and works really well.

Good to know, I'm wanting a good in tank pump at this stage.

Will probs go for the Walbro which seem to have a good rap.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • MBS206
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • turbo76lx
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By turbo76lx · Posted

      Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • The Bogan
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By The Bogan · Posted

      LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...