Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I need some help here with my ECU choice.

I have a Motec M800 + Motec CDI that I am running in one of my race cars. Great ECU, very happy with the tune and control - NOT HAPPY about paying for bullshit extras that should be included (launch control, anti lag, logging etc). I have the basic setup and logging enabled and advanced functions is around $500 on top, which I will buy for anti lag and launch control when the car is finished after the new turbo install.

I can spend cash and and get a new loom made up for the daily drive and just have the motec plug in and plug out whenever I need to get the race car sorted. I can only drive one car at a time so this is fine, however I was thinking that a VIPEC V88 would be a good upgrade for the daily, cost around $2500 or so trade with sensors etc and I get all the goodies factory (anti lag launch control etc).

Just how good is the V88? Is it as good as or better than the motec? The software looks easy to follow and there are heaps of options enabled as well as factory additions that increase the functionality. I would like to try something new like the VIPEC in the future anyway and my conversion/switching costs is around $1000 for a new Motec flying loom + CDI Loom + 3bar map sensor and a few other basic sensors to make it plug and play. So for around $1500 after switching costs, I get a new ECU and a new toy to play with, with all the features that would cost THOUSANDS to enable on a motec.

What are your thoughts?

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have considered Autronic, but it is too archaic for my liking and the software sucks.

The newer haltech platinum did cross my mind as well. Software looks fancy, however not sure on the tune/functionality - anyone got feedback on the newer haltech?

i removed my m600 and cdi and now run a vipec v88 and m&w cdi in the godzilla drag gtr ...runs the engine the same..

if it was not up to the job i would not run it on my 30grand engine..

hope this helps. mark godzilla motorsport..

Hey Guys,

I need some help here with my ECU choice.

I have a Motec M800 + Motec CDI that I am running in one of my race cars. Great ECU, very happy with the tune and control - NOT HAPPY about paying for bullshit extras that should be included (launch control, anti lag, logging etc). I have the basic setup and logging enabled and advanced functions is around $500 on top, which I will buy for anti lag and launch control when the car is finished after the new turbo install.

I can spend cash and and get a new loom made up for the daily drive and just have the motec plug in and plug out whenever I need to get the race car sorted. I can only drive one car at a time so this is fine, however I was thinking that a VIPEC V88 would be a good upgrade for the daily, cost around $2500 or so trade with sensors etc and I get all the goodies factory (anti lag launch control etc).

Just how good is the V88? Is it as good as or better than the motec? The software looks easy to follow and there are heaps of options enabled as well as factory additions that increase the functionality. I would like to try something new like the VIPEC in the future anyway and my conversion/switching costs is around $1000 for a new Motec flying loom + CDI Loom + 3bar map sensor and a few other basic sensors to make it plug and play. So for around $1500 after switching costs, I get a new ECU and a new toy to play with, with all the features that would cost THOUSANDS to enable on a motec.

What are your thoughts?

you say it's for a daily.... why not just go a good old second hand pfc?

vipec/motec are definately better ecu's but when you have a race car, how much do you really need on the street?

JJJ: engine is a 1.5JZ, PFC for a 1JZ is around 1500 or so - not worth it for such a limited ECU that is limited to a hand controller. FC datalogit software will bring it up close to the cost of a V88. Looking at making around 350rwkw with a T04Z and HKS 264/272 cams and I'll borrow the 800cc injectors while I upgrade the fuel system on the race car for E85.

Walk510: Yes the factory motec datalogging software is great, but if you want to overlay graphs etc - you need pro, more $$$.

Sounds like the V88 is a winner for a race/daily setup. I love the Motec, but it does come at a high premium with marginal added value compared to today's ECUs tune and standard features. Fantastic back in 2001, but its 2010 now and there has been a lot of inroads into ECU tech to try and beat Motec at their own game.

Motec themselves are working on ECU's to tune direct injection and so forth - the next generation of engines.

Currently waiting for quotes on a flying loom and so forth to see how much it would cost to re-wire the CDI and Motec instead of getting a new ECU, however I believe that this exercise could cos as much as a v88 in itself given today's prices.

On another note - what is the v88 knock sensor option like? How does it compare to the Gizmo k-mon?

You already have the motec and it is $500 for the extras but a Vipec is worse and costs $2500? Why on earth would you pay more for less? Am I missing something here?

A Motec is 1000x better and easier to tune properly than any other ECU on the market, and if it is going to cost less for the extras then I don't see why you would downgrade to something else. Personally if you already have made the outlay and paid for installation and tuning I would not change.

If you were considering both from scratch then I would cost up both options and consider the Vipec. How many of the extra features would you need? Do you really need launch control etc?

Edited by Rolls
You already have the motec and it is $500 for the extras but a Vipec is worse and costs $2500? Why on earth would you pay more for less? Am I missing something here?

Lol... Yes, a lot.

The fancy logging with the Motec is impressive and the reason why a lot of people still use them. The Vipec will get there but it is still a new product and is continuing development.

Lol... Yes, a lot.

The fancy logging with the Motec is impressive and the reason why a lot of people still use them. The Vipec will get there but it is still a new product and is continuing development.

I realise the vipec is a great ECU but the motec is still better if he already owns it then I am confused why spending more to get less is being considered?

I realise the vipec is a great ECU but the motec is still better if he already owns it then I am confused why spending more to get less is being considered?

How is the Motec better? Better at what? Vipec has a faster processor and is more accurate, operates at greater temperature extremes... do some reading or at least drive a car tuned with an M800 and one with a V88.

He could sell the M800 with everything and get a V88 with all motorsport options, installed and tuned for the price he sold it for.

A Motec has far superior tuning software, Ive used a few and nothing even comes close. If he does sell the motec will he get many extra features that will be used? If not I would stick with the motec purely due to how much easier they are to tune.

Edited by Rolls
If not I would stick with the motec purely due to how much easier they are to tune.

That is surprising, not in my experience. But each to their own.

To the OP Vipec V88 uses the standard knock sensors, works fine.

That is surprising, not in my experience. But each to their own.

To the OP Vipec V88 uses the standard knock sensors, works fine.

Yeah I've changed my tune after a bit of reading, by the time you buy the wideband support, knock sensor support blah blah it certainly is going to be prohibitive to buy. I think the Vipec would be better bet even if it isn't as easy to tune, but I guess that comes down to the tuner anyway.

How is the Motec better? Better at what? Vipec has a faster processor and is more accurate, operates at greater temperature extremes... do some reading or at least drive a car tuned with an M800 and one with a V88.

He could sell the M800 with everything and get a V88 with all motorsport options, installed and tuned for the price he sold it for.

ummm were is dirtgarage when you need him for some good old motec bashing ??? bigmikespec has you idol gone away ? someone has too keep up the fight and it may as well be you now ?

what ecu does swiper the fox's car have now ??? not the inferior one does it ?

even mark is his gtr still run's an motec adl3 and motec e888 to measure the greater temperature extremes you talk about

how many real top level motorsport cars run motec I mean REAL race cars i.e dakar,rally raid,alms then to the national stuff like aus safari,finke,arc,super taxi's

class 1 offshore power boats and the list goes on and on

don't these class's operate in the most rugged extremes of the environment has to offer BUT the vipec is still better

but vipec make you car idle so much better like when does that really matter racing is Wide Open Throttle where it's meant to matter

ummm were is dirtgarage when you need him for some good old motec bashing ??? bigmikespec has you idol gone away ? someone has too keep up the fight and it may as well be you now ?

what ecu does swiper the fox's car have now ??? not the inferior one does it ?

even mark is his gtr still run's an motec adl3 and motec e888 to measure the greater temperature extremes you talk about

how many real top level motorsport cars run motec I mean REAL race cars i.e dakar,rally raid,alms then to the national stuff like aus safari,finke,arc,super taxi's

class 1 offshore power boats and the list goes on and on

don't these class's operate in the most rugged extremes of the environment has to offer BUT the vipec is still better

but vipec make you car idle so much better like when does that really matter racing is Wide Open Throttle where it's meant to matter

Lol... did I say it was inferior? I am not bashing it either, read what I said.

I spoke to Paul "re" Motec and the reason he changed back was for the logging, that being said, the logging is great better than the Vipec at this stage.

I was in a position to buy either, I went in cars with both, my tuner sold both... I chose Vipec

Don't be so naive :blink: motorsport has more to do with sponsorship and marketing than what products perform better.

PS: my comment was regard to operating temperature of the unit itself not measuring

PSS: I would run an ADL3 with my Vipec it is an awesome unit, it is compatable with the V88

ummm were is dirtgarage when you need him for some good old motec bashing ??? bigmikespec has you idol gone away ? someone has too keep up the fight and it may as well be you now ?

what ecu does swiper the fox's car have now ??? not the inferior one does it ?

even mark is his gtr still run's an motec adl3 and motec e888 to measure the greater temperature extremes you talk about

how many real top level motorsport cars run motec I mean REAL race cars i.e dakar,rally raid,alms then to the national stuff like aus safari,finke,arc,super taxi's

class 1 offshore power boats and the list goes on and on

don't these class's operate in the most rugged extremes of the environment has to offer BUT the vipec is still better

but vipec make you car idle so much better like when does that really matter racing is Wide Open Throttle where it's meant to matter

Am I the only one that had trouble reading this?

Try to use some decent grammar mate, your post sounds like it was typed by someone with ADD.

Lol... did I say it was inferior? I am not bashing it either, read what I said.

I spoke to Paul "re" Motec and the reason he changed back was for the logging, that being said, the logging is great better than the Vipec at this stage.

I was in a position to buy either, I went in cars with both, my tuner sold both... I chose Vipec

Don't be so naive :rofl: motorsport has more to do with sponsorship and marketing than what products perform better.

PS: my comment was regard to operating temperature of the unit itself not measuring

PSS: I would run an ADL3 with my Vipec it is an awesome unit, it is compatable with the V88

wasn't there real reason Paul went to motec ???? it can't just be about logging

I'm happy you chose vipec congratulations !!

I'm not naive i just cant stand the crap that some people carry on about

Motec don't sponsor anybody EVERYONE has to pay for it vipec on the other hand i dont know

P.S whats your story about operating temperature of the unit ???

PSS how is the vipec more accurate ?????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...