Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey!

Im new at the forums.

So my friend is going to buy a skyline and the tail lights are not similar to my R33 GTR or the other R33s out there can you just buy normal taillights and change them?

What should we exactly do?

These are the ligths (just an exampel)

http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/largepic....odel=SKYLINER33

Thank you!

Edited by SKYGTRONE

Ewwww... They are some sort of aids i believe..

If he owns that car/plans on buying it.. Lock it in a garage so no one can see.. Then you need to pour holy water over them and chant some holy shit.. then burn them.. Then just find a R33 GTR tail lights from wreckers, forum members selling, etc.. Replace..

It just looks like they moded the original housing so souldnt have changed plugs or anything..

Edited by .:: GimpS-R34 ::.

wow.. that is absolutely disgusting.. i vomitted a little.. It appears that GTR got infected with gangrene or something similar.. definitely take them out and burn them.. perhaps even offer the previous owner as a sacrifice to the gods as the car may carry some kind of curse..

but yeh, wreckers, forums in wanted to buy section etc etc..

Yea i know they are the worst ive ever seen, Is it hard to change the tail lights? and do i need to repaint something? Beacuse i know a Swedish dealer (i live in sweden) that sells R33 LED Tail lights but they dont have the cover ( if you know what i mean ) Where can i buy that?

Edited by SKYGTRONE

the cover is what looks to be modified.. they are easy to get out/install.. simple screws undo from inside the boot.. unplug wires.. lights are out..

cover should unscrew from the back of the lights..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...