Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought this last friday, to replace my impreza, which will fund a work ute

its clean as, auto :-( , and a tight and responsive L24e $850 with 2 months rego

I have 2 5 speeds and a spare L24e from a C210. I was wondering if anyone has

everything else to convert to manual (pedal box, clutch master and line, stick,

console rubber and floorpan seal) and if the yoke is the same with auto and manual

feels good to be back in a skyline, any help is appreciated

post-60300-1285230926_thumb.jpg

post-60300-1285231071_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337928-my-new-daily-drive/
Share on other sites

damn.

thanks guys for your help

there is a datsun wreckers in Castlereagh, Sydney, that has a straight C210 coupe

minus engine, gearbox and most of interior if anyone wants it. Has rust in boot, but is worth saving. also 2 MR30 sedans

His name is Carlos, he's a reasonable bloke, have a chat to him

http://www.sportsclassic.com.au/

  • 2 weeks later...

^^^ Carlos Casmiri ^^^ Rally dude and hoarder of Zed Parts.

You need the tailshaft and speedo cable from the manual, as well as the clutch pedal and the bolt/rod thing that goes through the manual pedal box...

I reckon that, the Auto and Long Manual box would be the same length (didn't measure) so you might be able to use the Auto Tailshaft with a Long Box... but the gearstick will be a few cm further back in the hole...

Biggest problem is going to be the crossmember... the Auto Tunnel is about 10cm wider than the Manual Tunnel, so you are trying to bolt the gearbox crossmember into thin air... Auto one crosses the transmission in a completely different spot, and bolts through the floorpan at different levels, so you will have a slight complex fabrication job...

Cheers,

Daewoo

^^^ Carlos Casmiri ^^^ Rally dude and hoarder of Zed Parts.

heeheehee i like that

You need the tailshaft and speedo cable from the manual, as well as the clutch pedal and the bolt/rod thing that goes through the manual pedal box...

Im hoping to find a complete manual at the wreckers. nothing in sydney, goulburn has a couple of auto's. i will find one!

I reckon that, the Auto and Long Manual box would be the same length (didn't measure) so you might be able to use the Auto Tailshaft with a Long Box... but the gearstick will be a few cm further back in the hole...

thought that would be the case with the long box, so i wont use this option.

Biggest problem is going to be the crossmember... the Auto Tunnel is about 10cm wider than the Manual Tunnel, so you are trying to bolt the gearbox crossmember into thin air... Auto one crosses the transmission in a completely different spot, and bolts through the floorpan at different levels, so you will have a slight complex fabrication job...

Ill be able to fabricate the crossmember no worries. I think my biggest drama will be getting hold of the complete conversion.

This is all very useful info, Thanks daewoo, muchly appreciated!

Ill be able to fabricate the crossmember no worries.

When you do, can I have one :(:rofl::D ... all progress on mine stopped about 3 months ago when I hit this hurdle, and lost interest... as the teachers all said "Daewoo is easily distracted"...

I think my biggest drama will be getting hold of the complete conversion.

Two things... the short boxes are in short supply, only ever used in MR30s and Stanzas... and, the plate that holds the input shaft bearing (or whatever it's real name is) is Aluminum, so prone to shitting themself... before I bought it, I would be taking that plate off and seeing if it is faxed, if it is, the plate is the same as a 'K' box, but it usually faxes the whole front housing (which you can also just swap for a 'K' one)...

As it is just a Daily, probably not a big deal...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Edited by Daewoo
Im hoping to find a complete manual at the wreckers. nothing in sydney, goulburn has a couple of auto's. i will find one!

Rushy (Pick n Payless) at Blacktown doesn't have any ?????????

Take a drive down to Dapto Pick a Part, they have 5 MR30's down there and I think 2 were manuals complete when I was there last Thursday.

I wasn't looking for manuals persay, but will if you like as I should be down there this week after picking up my manifold from a guy nearby. (Extreme Turbo Manifolds)

Cheers, D

Dapto don't know what they have!

Last Thursday they told me they had ONE (1) but I found FIVE (5) so maybe the four (4) they don't have are manual lol

I'm going back to Extreme Turbo Manifolds on Thursday morning, so I will stop in to Pick a Part and look. If I find I'll take some pickies for you as proof.

Cheers, D

Ok! Been to Dapto today and as usual, they don't know what they have and there was one manual, but the pedal box was being removed when I was there and the rest had gone, if the guys taking out the pedal box already didn't have it.

PM me with what you need for this manual conversion and I'll see what I have spare.

Cheers, Dennis

thanks for that ghostrider. wreckers people are generally pretty dumb, like the guys in Melbourne,

crushed the C210 coupe after having it for only a week and everyone wanting stuff off it

Mag86, i need the whole lot, seeing as the C210 5 speed is too long

Do R32 gtst's use a stubby box? i know is a lot smaller than the R33 box.

had a thought, RB25 n/a and a R32 box. what do you guys think?

Also bought a DR30 series 2 instrument panel, techo goes to 9000!

but all the connections are different to the stock instrument panel.

ill upload a pic asap

thanks for that ghostrider. wreckers people are generally pretty dumb, like the guys in Melbourne,

crushed the C210 coupe after having it for only a week and everyone wanting stuff off it

Mag86, i need the whole lot, seeing as the C210 5 speed is too long

Do R32 gtst's use a stubby box? i know is a lot smaller than the R33 box.

had a thought, RB25 n/a and a R32 box. what do you guys think?

Also bought a DR30 series 2 instrument panel, techo goes to 9000!

but all the connections are different to the stock instrument panel.

ill upload a pic asap

Your going to have a problem fitting your S2 instrument cluster into an S1 car. All your connections are diferrent, so you're going to have to rewire or maybe replace the instrument loom. Don't know if the latter is possible, but rewiring would be.

The R32 box can be used but it needs an L series front housing on it. As Mags says Stewart Wilkins will do the mod for you. The gear lever is going to come out of the tunnel a little further back in the hole, which isn't a huge biggie issue.

I was originally going down the RB25DE conversion until I stumbled across my PNV and decided to keep it a bit stockish. It's a relatively easy conversion and been done to bits, along with the RB30E conversion.

I'm about to have a huge cleanout of accumulated bits, so if your interested let me know.

Cheers, D

This is what you want if your going to do it easy!

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-DR30-Skyline...=item58867ab14f

If you buy this, take it to South West Instruments at Smeaton Grange and he will modify it for you. He did my S2 cluster a few years ago.

Cheers, D

post-2962-1286522073_thumb.jpg

Yo! here is my instrument cluster

post-60300-1286533497_thumb.jpg

post-60300-1286533432_thumb.jpg

I like how yours goes to 260km/h. ill think about that one

that cluster itself will justify a engine transplant :-)

The series 2 dash KILLS the series 1 dash!

thanks andrew, good info!

engine exchange isnt a huge priority at the moment

might do it in 6 months or so

ghostrider, when you do your clean out, if you can gather a

complete 5 speed conversion, including tailshaft,

and also series 1 hotplates in good condition. If you have

all this, and we can talk price.

thankfully, you dont live too far from me

I read somewhere that for ideal air supply, the plenum

volume is matched with engine displacement, and double engine

displacement for n/a engines. cut 3 sides off the stock plenum

smoothen the inlet runners and tig up a 2.4l volume plenum.

dont know if im dreaming now, but a RB30 throttle body and airflow meter

to a aftermarket ecu?

The 260km/h speedo is very difficult to get these days, as Jenesis wont trade outside of the domestic market. One sold on ebay (complete cluster) recently for a little over $200.00 and the Tomei variety 240km/h gets onto Yahoo in Japan a bit often but landed it would cost in excess of $600.00.

When you look at the back of the S1 cluster, you will find it entirely diferrent to the S2.

I might have an Aussie S2 dashboard harness in a grey dash under the house that you can play with if you like. I'll have a look over the weekend and let you know.

Mechanical parts I will be reluctant to let go because I have 2 x KHR30 Paul Newman coupes & an DR30 coupe track car that need maintaining. A stock tailshaft I might have, as I'm upgrading one of my PNV's to the stronger larger DR30 tailshaft. The companion flange might be an issue because all my R30's came out with R200 diffs.

Probably the only box I have that I would be prepared to let go is an HR31 RB20DET box.

The RB30E throttle body isn't much better than the one you have now. The next one up is the 60mm KA24E (U12 Pintara) or RB25DE throttle body and with an a/mkt ECU you wont need an AFM at all, as it will most likely use an MAF sensor.

As for an inlet plenum, you might find it's more cost effective to extrude hone or power port the manifold. I have an N42 (non EGR) 280ZX inlet manifold that has been comcoated, that I might be tempted to part with, or maybe a stock 280ZX EGR manifold, depending how your bent.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...