Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Just bought myself a Stagea M35 Axis Autch 2002 turbo. WOW! Its even better than I thought. Love the power when the boost comes on. Also the noise it makes when it gets up and going. At first I thought is that the turbos and was a bit worried. But as time went on I believe its something else (engine/gearbox/ or turbo I guess). Sound like a supercharger to be honest. Nothing bad like the siren noise you hear when a turbo is on its way out.

Anyway back to point. I noticed when I crank up the fan speed in the cockpit that there is no serious air blowing out the center vents either side of the TV/Stereo. Well actually nothing. Adn the side vents near the door have a very weak output. But the lower vent near your feet have good output! Make me think that the venter behind the dash is not connected and is just blowing where ever behind dash.

just wanted to check if anyone else has had this and their solutions before I start going and ripping the dash apart? I'd hate to start pulling the glovebox out and find nothing wrong and for it to turn out to be a setting issue or fuse?

I would have thought if I turn up the fan full speed I could feel a gust of wind on my face like all other cars I have had. Yeah something not right.

So any info/tip/pics anyone could share it would be much appreciated.

Paul.

Firstly, welcome to SkylinesAustralia, and also welcome to the wonderful experience of owning a Stagea!

With your question about the fans, that would depend a fair bit on what temperature you've set for the Air-Con or heater. If it's on Auto and you've set the temperature up high to warm yourself, then the air will almost always come out around the feet because hot air rises. If it's set to cool (still in Auto, and especially with the Air-Con switched on), then the air will come out of the top vents.

This is quite normal on all cars with climate control HVAC systems, no matter who makes the car.

Hi Paul, and Welcome!

First thing I'd check would be the Air con/heater filter. Its behind the glovebox I think? They are often neglected, never changed and have a load of rubbish in them. This is a how to on the C34, so not really applicable to us, but will show you the problem- have a look at the filters in the pics.Dirty Filters

Oh, have a look HERE for some stuff on the M35, go to the last page.

Hope that helps you!

No probs for stupid questions as your right. Sometimes we just over look the simplest things. But yes the vents are manually open.

Also I should have mentioned that I have turned the temp down to the lowest setting of 18*C.

I have tried turing the actual AirCon on/off and can tell it works because int eh side vents with ery little breeze it cools down a little and I can hear the change in idle RPM when turning it on/off.

I shall check out those links. Any more info/help still glad to hear of.

Cheers.

hey so i done some more investigating. I pulled out the glovebox and then the aircon filter. Yuk! But with the filter and glovebox out I give me more access to hear and see what is going on.

So the fan works, the aircon works but the mode switch does not seem to do anything at all. Moving from Head mode to feet mode or to head & feet mode or head & demister mode I neither hear or see any motor/flap movements. Its seems as though the selection mode and/or switch are not functioning.

Anyone know of any quick checks or fixes? Or does this seem more server like faulty electronics somewhere? Would be great if its jsut a blown fuse. I have checked the fuses down near the acceleration pedal and all seem ok.

thanks.

If you bought it from a reputable dealer such as Northshore Prestige motors, im sure they would be happy to correct the problem.

If you got it privately then you should be able to hear the motors operate the vent control as you press the 'mode' button. check to make sure you see the vent selection moving on the aircon display panel. if you hear no motors move, then it may be something as simple as a plug being loose. if it selects only SOME of the vents, then check the relevant motor. from memory (which is pretty bad) they are located on the passenger side of the centre console, next to the fan/filter box.

IM have a few aircon control units from PM and NM models. also entire fan motor assemblies and pretty much everything you could want to replace your aircon :laugh:

Yep when I select the different mode the display changes appropriately. All looks fine but I had my head where the gearbox usually is (lol) and was pressing the mode selection button and nothing was happening. No sounds, movements, etc. Just dead. So I guess I have to pull out the center console. Was just trying to avoid that. Cheers!

find the actuator

it will be on the side of the centre consol

traditionally (r32-c34) its on the drivers side level with the steering column

but being an m35 it could be elsewhere

unplug, clean and replug it, that may fix the problem

next step would be to remove it, disassemble it and re-solder the joints inside as they are prone to going dry and brittle in earlier nissans

failing that, get a second hand unit

failing that, a new unit

Hey Guys, just thought I'd report back that I fixed it! I figured out how to get into the aircon service mode and did a test between the diff modes and foudn things were moving/switching except to the head mode. Ripped of the covers from the drivers side to get access to the motors and actuator gearing. I could then see there was minimal movement with the head mode position and then when poking with a screw driver found a moving black piece of plastic in the white gears that did not look like it belonged there. And sure enough it didn't. I removed this plastic object and then found all works! So saved myself a heap of time.

Hey Guys, just thought I'd report back that I fixed it! I figured out how to get into the aircon service mode and did a test between the diff modes and foudn things were moving/switching except to the head mode. Ripped of the covers from the drivers side to get access to the motors and actuator gearing. I could then see there was minimal movement with the head mode position and then when poking with a screw driver found a moving black piece of plastic in the white gears that did not look like it belonged there. And sure enough it didn't. I removed this plastic object and then found all works! So saved myself a heap of time.

Nice one! Always like it when these type of threads come to a happy end. The DIY fix is often the sweetest one. :/

Well if anyone can shed more light on the diagnostics mode of aircon it would be great. Especially since I think I might have upset my outside temp reading (not sure how).

But what you so is;

1) turn your ignition on (dont need to start the car) and within 10sec hold the off button for 5sec.

2) Your in!

If I remember correctly (will check again in a mo as goign to work on car again) you initially see all LED display elements illuminated. Then I think you use the "mode" button to toggle to menu options 2, 3, 41 & 51. I will check these again later. When you in menu 51 you can push the "up" button (as in the the up and down for adjusting temp setting) to toggle into mode 61 where you can set the temp offset by 3 degrees in increments of 0.5*C. Also I think in this mode 61 if you push the demister button I think it is (top left button of aircon controls) you can toggle into the readouts for all 3 temp sensors.

Again I hope I got that right working of my memory from 2 days ago. I will suss out again in a mo.

I just keep pushing buttons and trying combos until it worked. I have a lot of practice I guess you could say. I worked 4 years in Biomedical engineering where I serviced over 250 different types of medical equipment that have their own ways of entry and service menus. But you may want to proceed with caution. I think I have accidentally adjusted my outside temp reading. I think its 3*C too high. But I just have not had time to try n change it back as been busy with the tv tuner install (which I just got up and running).

P.S. I still did not manage to suss out the diag. menu on aircon yet. Will get to it soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...