Jump to content
SAU Community

Think My Car Is Underperforming, Dyno It ?

starwarz

By starwarz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

starwarz Proficient

starwarz

Posted
Posted

Got owned by a few car lenghts last night by a BMW 320Ci, i dont usually race infact it was my first Fast and furious race since being on p's for over a year, but that BMW was riced up with 20inch mags and hektic exhaust and i knew it has the same amount of cylinder and engine capacity of 2.5 liters......So when i went to foor him on captain cooks bridge i was surprised a stock BMW which on paper has 170hp compared to 197hp skyline flogged me, i was in triptronic shifting at about 6-7 revs, we both started from 30k's i backed off at 100 he was already ahead so i gave up, speed limit was 80 so only 20 k' over i wasnt doing life risking racing btw all straight and not a soul on the bridge at that time.

Gerg_R31 Mentor

Gerg_R31

Posted
Posted

i dont think its "underperforming", its most likely on the back of a tow truck

so what if 2 motors have the same compacity doesnt mean they will have the same power/ torque, or run the same rods/pistons crank etc, or the same bore & stroke or valve train cams, or even gear ratios diff ratio, tyres etc

your a p plater, and regardless of where it was or how much other traffic there was u shouldnt be racing anywhere thats not a controlled enviroment, otherwise other P platers like myself have to cop the bullshit extra laws they keep adding on because of you and others like minded

StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
Posted

Yeah bro, chuck it on a dyno, will solve all your problems. Dunno if you know, but new model dynos have special sensors that are put in your exhaust, helps permanently suck out more exhaust gas. More air out = mor air and fuel in = more powarrrr...

Lol jks seriously though, running your car in a dyno isn't gonna do shit. All itll tell you is your car is making 150-170hp at the wheels... And by the sounds of it (youve described nothing mechanical at all, just winged about how you got beaten by a BMW.) there isn't anything real wrong with your car so a dyno run is wasted money. It's a non turbo skyline, they're not designed to be fast.

Save up and buy a GTT when you're off your p plates.

starwarz Proficient

starwarz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i dont think its "underperforming", its most likely on the back of a tow truck

so what if 2 motors have the same compacity doesnt mean they will have the same power/ torque, or run the same rods/pistons crank etc, or the same bore & stroke or valve train cams, or even gear ratios diff ratio, tyres etc

your a p plater, and regardless of where it was or how much other traffic there was u shouldnt be racing anywhere thats not a controlled enviroment, otherwise other P platers like myself have to cop the bullshit extra laws they keep adding on because of you and others like minded

There is nothing wrong with giving your car a hit on straight line when there is no cars around............., i do a lot of freeway driving and i purpposely didnt exceed 100k's, the speed limit was 80....like i said im not going to crash at 100k's on a 80 zone, i have driven over that bridge 1000 times on the way home...

Gerg_R31 Mentor

Gerg_R31

Posted
Posted

no such thing as safe speeding, regardless of how ever u feel the need to justify it, your a f**king tool, and even if you werent caught, you still have contributed to the extra bullshit laws the rest of the P platers who do the right thing all the time have to deal with

20km/h over thats what 4 points and a automatic 3 month suspension for a p plater in nsw?

starwarz Proficient

starwarz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yeah bro, chuck it on a dyno, will solve all your problems. Dunno if you know, but new model dynos have special sensors that are put in your exhaust, helps permanently suck out more exhaust gas. More air out = mor air and fuel in = more powarrrr...

Lol jks seriously though, running your car in a dyno isn't gonna do shit. All itll tell you is your car is making 150-170hp at the wheels... And by the sounds of it (youve described nothing mechanical at all, just winged about how you got beaten by a BMW.) there isn't anything real wrong with your car so a dyno run is wasted money. It's a non turbo skyline, they're not designed to be fast.

Save up and buy a GTT when you're off your p plates.

I see, well the cars not perfect it sometimes shakes at idle im not sure why it happens but goes away and comes back, my mechanic suggested it needs new sparkplugs or coilovers, i used to driving my mates R34 manual around when he went holiday about once a week so it has someone to drive it around so the battery and stuff dont die, and it performs way better then mine, but that should be because its a manual and different gear ratio,my car feels like its got no grunt in 3rd or 4th so you could kind of figure out why im not sure its running like its supposed to, but you probaly right i just expect to much from it lol.

starwarz Proficient

starwarz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
no such thing as safe speeding, regardless of how ever u feel the need to justify it, your a f**king tool, and even if you werent caught, you still have contributed to the extra bullshit laws the rest of the P platers who do the right thing all the time have to deal with

20km/h over thats what 4 points and a automatic 3 month suspension for a p plater in nsw?

Im a good driver and i drive to the limit 95% of the time i need my car to get to UNI and Work, so im rarely recklessl, dont bullshit me man im sure you have gunned it past 10-20k's everybody has.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
... im not going to crash at 100k's on a 80 zone, i have driven over that bridge 1000 times on the way home...
Famous last words! So many drivers - p-platers and fully licenced alike - have uttered those immortal words,

just before they wrote themselves, their passengers, or another motorist, out.

rorz Enthusiast

rorz

Posted
Posted

Non-turbo skylines are generally quite slow. I'm not surprised the BMW beat you to be honest. I'm sure everyone here has sped from time to time man maybe just don't tell everyone you had an illegal race.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LegendGTR
      EFR7670 exhaust selection RB26

      By LegendGTR · Posted

      I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • PranK
      Stock Airbox and Snorkle for RWC - VIC west

      By PranK · Posted

      Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • PranK
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By PranK · Posted

      This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...