Jump to content
SAU Community

Can Your Read This Plug For Me? ....please...

GD51LA

By GD51LA,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
Looks quite rich fouled. Also is the crush washer crushed? What heat range.

How is that rich fouled?

The black around the ring is normal for any turboed engine. The center is where you should be looking

:/ Damn, I thought he did a pretty good job as it is! lol

Yeah I was joking lmao

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted
How is that rich fouled?

The black around the ring is normal for any turboed engine. The center is where you should be looking

Yeah I was joking lmao

It looks as tho its been rich fouled and then it has partially cleaned up. Hence the heavy carbon layer around the plug end.

Supa Steve Enthusiast

Supa Steve

Posted
Posted (edited)
It looks as tho its been rich fouled and then it has partially cleaned up. Hence the heavy carbon layer around the plug end.

This post is pretty close to the mark but without running the engine right to get a proper plug read the results can be decieving. Need to see the ground strap to get an idea of heat range/timing and also cut the thread off it to get a look at the fuel line. This looks fairly rich that has been cleaned up by the car idleing hence the clean porcelain near the electrode but again the plug has been in the engine too long to correctly read as there is quite a thick carbon build up. I hope thats not aluminium deposits i can see (silver spots) and if so there has been some detanation causing the edge of the quench pad to be deposited on the base ring . Throw a fresh set of plugs in and do a full noise run then shut it down before it returns to idle as this will allow the plug to be read accurately.

Edited by Supa Steve
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
It looks as tho its been rich fouled and then it has partially cleaned up. Hence the heavy carbon layer around the plug end.

rich - yes.....fouled - no

Pull out any turbo spark plug and it will look like that. The black is normal. The centre of the plug tells you what condition the cylinder is running in. White is lean and black is rich, light brown is perfect. If it has deposits on the outer and/or centre electrode (which it does have tiny amounts) it would usually indicate poor fuel quality/additives or slight burning of oil but I think it would be fuel moreso in this case

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
This post is pretty close to the mark but without running the engine right to get a proper plug read the results can be decieving. Need to see the ground strap to get an idea of heat range/timing and also cut the thread off it to get a look at the fuel line. This looks like its a rich tune that has been cleaned up at idle hence the clean porcelain near the electrode. A proper run then shutdown will allow the plug to be read accurately.

This is also true but still normal for these engines to run rich at peak torque or midrange. Anything less will usually kill them

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted (edited)
rich - yes.....fouled - no

Pull out any turbo spark plug and it will look like that. The black is normal. The centre of the plug tells you what condition the cylinder is running in. White is lean and black is rich, light brown is perfect. If it has deposits on the outer and/or centre electrode (which it does have tiny amounts) it would usually indicate poor fuel quality/additives or slight burning of oil but I think it would be fuel moreso in this case

That amount of carbon build up around the thread end is not normal - I would be very dubious of the tune and or too colder plug.

If my tune resulted in a plug that read like that I would concerned.

Edited by rob82
GD51LA Mentor

GD51LA

Posted
  • Author
Posted

some fat feedback boys. as usual :P

those shots were taken from my new canon camera :happy: i thought it would need a great picture for us to read it properly

ok so i put in a new plug, drive it to 8k then turn it off, right?

no tune, its completely standard just exhaust/front pipes/5cat..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...