Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

i fitted a brand new battery this morning, turned her over and all was fine.

not 30 minutes later i tried to start it again and it was flat.....clutch started it and drove off. about 10 minutes down the road the car started to choke....the revs began to bounce and within 30 seconds the car cut out.....i pulled over and tried to crank it.....flat.

i pulled out a charged battery and jumped started it.....disconnected the jumper.....and fine for 20 seconds......then revs started to bounce again....then cut out again....

i swapped the batteries....and the she started fine and ran ok......i then disconnected the battery as i didnt want it to drain again......i was then able to drive the car for 10 minutes home....

i noticed on the way home that the battery light in the dash was on.....firstly what does that light mean? and what do you think i am faced with?

im thinking alternator is cactus....but why?? nothing has changed since i drove it last....

also i just changed front bar....could the fog lights, even tho they are visibly off, somehow be on and sucking power? nothing else has changed....

list of things i need answered...

1. what does the battery light in dash mean?

2. could it be my alternator?

3. how hard is it to change an alternator?

4. fog lights?

thanks guys!!

  • Nope 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338337-new-battery-flat-in-30-minutes/
Share on other sites

Hi all,

i fitted a brand new battery this morning, turned her over and all was fine.

not 30 minutes later i tried to start it again and it was flat.....clutch started it and drove off. about 10 minutes down the road the car started to choke....the revs began to bounce and within 30 seconds the car cut out.....i pulled over and tried to crank it.....flat.

i pulled out a charged battery and jumped started it.....disconnected the jumper.....and fine for 20 seconds......then revs started to bounce again....then cut out again....

i swapped the batteries....and the she started fine and ran ok......i then disconnected the battery as i didnt want it to drain again......i was then able to drive the car for 10 minutes home....

i noticed on the way home that the battery light in the dash was on.....firstly what does that light mean? and what do you think i am faced with?

im thinking alternator is cactus....but why?? nothing has changed since i drove it last....

also i just changed front bar....could the fog lights, even tho they are visibly off, somehow be on and sucking power? nothing else has changed....

list of things i need answered...

1. what does the battery light in dash mean?

2. could it be my alternator?

3. how hard is it to change an alternator?

4. fog lights?

thanks guys!!

Is the alternater changing the battery

im definitely no expert but id say that the battery isnt getting charged from the alternator...but i got no idea how to test it....

im charging the battery again and will try it in the car again...

im definitely no expert but id say that the battery isnt getting charged from the alternator...but i got no idea how to test it....

im charging the battery again and will try it in the car again...

mm maybe google it, there is a way but i don't wanna tell you the wrong way!

The RED battery light means there's a problem with the battery / charge circuit. The alternator is probably frizzed. The battery might last longer if you turned the frikken fog lights off (they're for foggy conditions, hence the name).

If you don't know how to test the alternator, try a search.

Fog lights are never on, just fitted a new front bar and then this started. Might check the earthing, and then check the alternator.

Anyone know how to change an alternator? Anyone done it?

1. what does the battery light in dash mean?Battery isn't charging.

2. could it be my alternator?Yes most likely

3. how hard is it to change an alternator?Not hard. Its very easy

4. fog lights?Doubt it to be the cause

will invest in a multimeter.....read up on how to test....

could it be a dud battery? i bought it new...but who knows what kind of condition its in....anyone else had incidents with new batteries dying straight away???

will invest in a multimeter.....read up on how to test....

could it be a dud battery? i bought it new...but who knows what kind of condition its in....anyone else had incidents with new batteries dying straight away???

Biggest point that makes everyone say alternator is the fact that you were driving it and it still died. If a car is started and the alternator works fine you pretty much don't need a battery there it will run off the alternator

^^ +1 battery dying usually consists of it dropping a cell and will only retain 10 volts instead of 12 but once its started alternator will cover it. battery light doesnt usually come on if its a dud battery apart from taking a couple extra seconds to go off sometimes on start up. check fuses if havent already

changed to 2nd hand alternator. no change at all....

still has battery light....still no charge from alternator (ie reads 11.8v at idle)

what else should i check? could i just have the worse luck or could something else be stuffed?

does anyone know the electrics work? could there be a fault elsewere??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...