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Pulling Rb26 From Bnr32

nuclear_skyline

By nuclear_skyline,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
Posted

Well the time has come it appears to pull the engine - mostly to do the upgrades but also to do my starter motor. We had the car up on the hoist yesterday and holy god is it a tangle of lines and hardware!

From those who have pulled these engines is there any major tricks to getting at things like the starter motor top bolt? Best accessible by taking the oil filter off and getting at it through there? Any hints/tips about the task as a whole would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure we'd get there in the end but having some hints would make like easier as its not exactly like pulling my 240z engine or mini engines... Mini engine out in 25 mins :blink: This will take much longer I fear...

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payback21 Community Regular

payback21

Posted
Posted

Yer drop from the bottom. Its easier. All plumbing to the turbos will need to be removed so the engine can drop down in between the chassis rails. A couple of power steering lines will also need to be disconnected from the kframe.

Starter motor top bolt needs 14mm short socket, wobbly drive and extensions. Yes they are a pain to do but you can do it with the right tools.

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
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Will the engine with the turbos and plenum attached fit through the chassis rails? Thats where I thought we'd get hung up... I did have a look at doing it this way but thought it would be a real tight squeeze / not fit through...

jeffworld2 Veteran

jeffworld2

Posted
Posted

Took mine out/ and put it in always through the top, can't do much else in the driveway.

I have taken it out with the gearbox and without, now i tie the box to the roll cage and just push it back a bit leaving it in the car.

much easier to do if you pull turbos off. I can lend you the manual if you want too. I also have an attatchment for the crane which allows you to tilt easily but you lose a bit of height so depends on the crane.

If you drop the gearbox crossmember and tilt the engine back you can more easily get at the starter bolts, i just did it with a ring spanner. Just watch the dumps on the other side

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nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
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Posted

Cheers Jeff. Thanks for the offer of tools but I think i'll have that one covered - might hit you up for the manual though :P Is yours electronic or hardcopy?

Confirms a few things. I want to pull the box anyway to fix a couple of noisy bearings in it so should be a good time had by all on the day its coming out. Now re-booked in for the 11th Oct. Just after the cruise... Might need a hand clutch starting the bugger if it doesnt work on the day :blink:

jangles Veteran

jangles

Posted
Posted

ive pulled 3 out, one with the gearbox attached,

took around 3 hours.

have to take out the driver CV joint and it just likes to catch on the metal lines above it,prise it off. thats all!

make sure you undo both nuts on the engine mounts (found this easier)

i just undid the front pipes, had no issues with the turbos with dumps still connected.

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
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God bless my HR31 engine bay, no ABS etc room amore :happy:

Its funny you know - I always looked at the engine in the car and went "The Japs were awesome to build this and fit it all in..." Now I look at it and curse!

With my 70 Cooper S I can get the engine out in 20-30mins and 30-40 back in and running. This will be a nightmare comparitively. Swapsies?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Oh it still takes me just as long - i have issues with RB25 gearbox in a HR31 shell so it's gotta be dropped from the bottom...

Still a cvnt load easier.

But yes, definately easier to go from the bottom IMO.

It can be done from the top as well though, just more time consuming and careful leaverage when the motor is on the crane to get it over the rad support etc.

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
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we used to do all of them by dropping it down, far easier and quicker. Think i have some pics somewhere. Becomes a 2hr operation instead of a 3-4hr head fck.

Thanks Trent. Some pics would be great. More info I have before I drop it, better it will go.... Can't wait to throw the goodies i've bought on!

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
what issues? sure the tunnell cops a bit of a beating but it comes out the top easily enough

I bet you don't have a fully seam welded engined bay thats been filled & painted in most area's :P

Gotta be veeeery careful :happy:

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

Ive done both ways and I reckon top out is better.

Sure it comes out the bottom way in 2 hours BUT then you gotta remove the engine and box off of the k frame, put k frame back in to get the car mobile, disconnect suspensions etc etc. I know you have to do at least the drivers side, but still....

Once you get the intake piping and cooler piping and radiator out, theres plenty of room.

Drop the box xmember down to get the top bellhousing bolts then put it back up.

A ratchet spanner is your friend for the top starter bolt.

Each to their own.

Try both ways...good practice :happy:

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted
I bet you don't have a fully seam welded engined bay thats been filled & painted in most area's :wub:

Gotta be veeeery careful :)

yer that wouldnt help

white engine bay with lots of black decoration (grime n shit) makes it easier not to care :)

fatz Grand Master

fatz

Posted
Posted

drop sub frame down to the last threads on the bolts

put the driverside shaft out

reef it out the top 3 hours tops with two poeple( will take longer if you have not dont the top gearbox bolts before or the starter motor before)

if you have a hoist straight out the bottom maybe 2 hours

you dont need to pull the turbo either way (that is massive waste of time and 40 times easier to do when the engine is out)

lol.. pull turbos off... lol

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