Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Needed Urgently Half Way Through Job

Smegul

By Smegul,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Smegul Explorer

Smegul

Posted
Posted

Hey guys

Im installing a tranny cooler on my r31 turbo.

The cooler has 2 end tanks, with one port on the bottom of the end tank and the other port on the top of the other end tank.

I drew a shiity paint diagram to show you what i mean. Basically does it matter if the trany oil comes in the bottom, or should it go in the top?

Which way does a radiator flow?

Also can anyone tell me which way the oil enters the stock radiator? I.e does it enter in the drivers side of the car, and exit the other side, or the other way around?

http://yfrog.com/mr43785953p

p.s its a series 3 r31, with the re4ro1a tranny, same as r33 gts auto.

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

Your radiator flows in the top and out the bottom, but as for the oil direction I don't know. Having said that you can find out soon enough by running it and see what pipe it comes from and then connect it with the least amount of resistance. Top to bottom again.

Smegul Explorer

Smegul

Posted
  • Author
Posted

All good found out by cranking. Also found out the car has been running without a thermostat for ....however long.

Now, should I bypass the radiator oil cooler altogether or run the cooler inline with it, if you know what I mean?

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

Hey D,

You've stated some 100% accurate facts about the cooling system - but I would treat the trans cooler differently and here's why:

The engine cooling system (generally) has a bleeding point in the radiator (or nearby)

The engine cooling system is pressurised.

But a trans oil cooler like this has neither of these. So if you fill from the top you may find that air gets trapped in the cooler, reducing the efficiency.

My 2c worth.

Smegul,

You can safely bypass the bottom-tank cooler - but you may find that overdrive lockup does not occur as soon from cold.

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

Hey Ben,

The radiator information came straight of the R31 manual, but it doesn't say anything about transmission fluid flow. It was a guess on my part as the cooler on my V8 Cressida can flow in either direction.

Just as a point of interest, I don't know of any bleed point in any of the Nissan cooling systems I have dealt with so far. I'm not no anything expert in matters R31, so I normally let these questions slide through to the keeper.

All is cool.

Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted

I filled my hoses & trans cooler before installation so there was minimal air.

Transmission is staying cooler, but the fluid is grey and silty, plus it wont hold gears when cold. I think its time for a replacement.

The RB30e has a bolt on top of the plenum to purge the air out of the cooling passages (highest point)

especially a problem in the VL commoores as they ar on a slightly different angle to the R31.

the 2x VG30det in the garage have the air outlet, might not be standard though

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

It sounds like the connection orientation isn't a critical factor (FWIW, all the coolers I've mounted have both connections at the top). Andrew - you need a gearbox rebuild, especially if you plan on significantly increasing the torque output of your car.

:)

Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted

the Z31 in my driveway has a rebuilt 4N71b with $2500 in receipts (apparently) so Im hopeing the L series bellhousing will bolt on and somehow I can use it!

Otherwise a rebuild will be on the cards... quite pricey too by the sound of things.

Same box as the VL commodore so there are shift kits available too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By The Bogan · Posted

      LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • MBS206
      Recommendation for engine oil funnel spill free

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...