Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32

RB20det approx 450hp flywheel power 335 at wheels approx

GT25R turbo 440 HP

Hybrid bar plate cooler

GTR injectors

300zx airflow meter

HKS pod

500HP fuel pump

R33 5spd box

Cross drilled GTR type front discs

After market sway bars

Bilstein height adjustable suspension

Custom $5000 paint orange I believe this was the first 1 done black fleck bonnet Rear guards flared

No rear wing

$3000 MP3 stereo system sub amp etc splits

nizmo 300klm speedo

500HP direct clutch kit

Trust front bar new just fitted

$3000 Ray engineering wheels new 17" tyres

probably more details if i keep looking

everything looks standard no wild modifications

NOTHING TO SPEND UNLESS YOU WANT CUSTOM INTERIOR

$24,000

DSCF0023.JPG

MORE PIX

http://www.directimported.com.au/orange32/pix.htm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33860-400hp-r32-fs/
Share on other sites

i have dyno sheet before GTR injetors and 300zx afm was put on @ 300HP at the treads

my mate in harvey bay has same combo as mine 335Hp at wheels with gtr inj and afm

i will post it up

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33860-400hp-r32-fs/#findComment-680567
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...