Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have recently purchased some NGK G Power Platinum IX BKR6EGP for my Series 2 Stagea and thought I will share the positive experience (not affiliated in any way with the company).

They cost only $10 each (on sale), usually $12 each which is a very good price with nominal shipping charge Australia wide.

The Irridium IX NGK's are $14 each which is a very good price (Supercheap, Repco, Bursons can charge anywhere between $18-$25 each for these).

The website is www.performancelub.com or

email [email protected]

They are Melbourne based and even pre-gapped the Platinums to 0.8mm for me at no charge!

Now that's service.

They also advertise on Ebay sometimes.

Also stock a wide variety of good oils as above.

Not affiliated in any way, just posting a good experience for all Stagea lovers.

Edited by RS4StagMan
Not affiliated in any way, just posting a good experience for all Stagea lovers.

Yep +1 for Henry's service and pricing

Pickup is also an option if you are local (or willing to drive)

'tis the only place I would buy Redline from as retail outlets have ridiculous prices and generally crap service

I have recently purchased some NGK G Power Platinum IX BKR6EGP for my Series 2 Stagea and thought I will share the positive experience (not affiliated in any way with the company).

They cost only $10 each (on sale), usually $12 each which is a very good price with nominal shipping charge Australia wide.

The Irridium IX NGK's are $14 each which is a very good price (Supercheap, Repco, Bursons can charge anywhere between $18-$25 each for these).

The website is www.performancelub.com or

email [email protected]

They are Melbourne based and even pre-gapped the Platinums to 0.8mm for me at no charge!

Now that's service.

They also advertise on Ebay sometimes.

Also stock a wide variety of good oils as above.

Not affiliated in any way, just posting a good experience for all Stagea lovers.

don't want to burst your bubble, but the plugs come pre-gapped at 0.8mm (unless they have -11 on the end of the part number which means they are the 1.1mm gap), so they didn't really do a thing.

They only advertise as stocking single quarts of oil I think what's with that?

At a guess, they would get their stock from the USA

I'm planning on buying some Redline from these guys eventually, heard nothing but good stuff about them.

Easier to bring into the country

i see that makes sense, even still at $14 a quart/litre for 10-40 royal purple it would cost $70 to fill the old girl with a little left for top ups, that's an awesome price over here in perth most so called "performance" shops want like $110 bucks at least so you would still be ahead even with paying the postage.

don't want to burst your bubble, but the plugs come pre-gapped at 0.8mm (unless they have -11 on the end of the part number which means they are the 1.1mm gap), so they didn't really do a thing.

Yes had -11 at the end so factory gap of 1.1mm regapped to 0.8mm.

i see that makes sense, even still at $14 a quart/litre for 10-40 royal purple it would cost $70 to fill the old girl with a little left for top ups, that's an awesome price over here in perth most so called "performance" shops want like $110 bucks at least so you would still be ahead even with paying the postage.

Agreed: GreenGhost (Myles) uses nothing but Royal Purple, and pays around $115 from a local supplier every time...

Meh... I change my oil every 3000-5000km, or 6 months: whatever comes first. That said, I am stressing the engine very close to its limit in stock form, so I prefer to err on the side of caution...

Haha whoops meant 5000, I don't think the nulon syn is that great so it's 5000 for me, so you

reakon royal purple is good for 20,000?

im still rocking the gulf western sougi s6000

$60-$70 for 5 litres depending on your distributer - some will even bring it to your door for no charge

its the same group as royal purple too (group 5 ester syn), nulon is a group 3 which is modified mineral oil

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...