Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys i have a 1993 r33 manual turbo blabla, it had been sitting in my garage for about 6-7 months i recently got rid of my other car so i decided i wud fire this baby back up, i re-charged the battery, put new rims/wheels on it, put the intercooler piping back on, cleaned it up and then started her up you beauty!!! was all doin fine rev'd nicely and all that stuff, then one day i decided id take it to pump up the tyres i take it for a drive. Straight away i realise the car is going incredibly slow but was driving fine, pretty much my v4 pulsar could have beaten it which is rather embarrasing... my mate was like maybe your not giving it enough revs i turned a corner and took it to past 6 then shifted and the car just locked up and stalled, i re-start the engine and kept rolling 30 metres where the car died again i go to start the car and it has mass revving problems going from about 200-1400, the lights dim as if the cars gonna stall each time i try to accelerate but it just gets all these weird adjustments in revs, i could not move the car, i got it towed back to my house by my mate where there i had a closer look it was shooting that much black smoke out of the exhaust i swear you would be dead covered in it in about 3 seconds. ALSO on closer inspection i looked at the engine bay there seems to be no leaks or funny sounds or anything except the whole f*kin engine in the bay was bloody shaking more violently than my mums old washing machine!! i immediately turned the car off not wanting to turn it back on....

i looked at similar posts but my only querys would be that its the AFM, or could it be the fact that since the car was sitting for ages the 98 octance fuel i put in it went bad and has clogged the fuel injectors+ throttle body? also my biggest question... why the hell is my engine shaking? IMMEDIATE HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339292-r33-dying-need-some-help/
Share on other sites

you should really put some more time into putting that out into paragraphs mate, very hard to read!

check that your airflow meter is still plugged in and operating correctly

also check that there are no intercooler pipes that have popped off. also check that there are no cracks anywhere in the intercooler pipes and intake piping etc

hi guys i have a 1993 r33 manual turbo blabla, it had been sitting in my garage for about 6-7 months i recently got rid of my other car so i decided i wud fire this baby back up, i re-charged the battery, put new rims/wheels on it, put the intercooler piping back on, cleaned it up and then started her up you beauty!!! was all doin fine rev'd nicely and all that stuff, then one day i decided id take it to pump up the tyres i take it for a drive. Straight away i realise the car is going incredibly slow but was driving fine, pretty much my v4 pulsar could have beaten it which is rather embarrasing... my mate was like maybe your not giving it enough revs i turned a corner and took it to past 6 then shifted and the car just locked up and stalled, i re-start the engine and kept rolling 30 metres where the car died again i go to start the car and it has mass revving problems going from about 200-1400, the lights dim as if the cars gonna stall each time i try to accelerate but it just gets all these weird adjustments in revs, i could not move the car, i got it towed back to my house by my mate where there i had a closer look it was shooting that much black smoke out of the exhaust i swear you would be dead covered in it in about 3 seconds. ALSO on closer inspection i looked at the engine bay there seems to be no leaks or funny sounds or anything except the whole f*kin engine in the bay was bloody shaking more violently than my mums old washing machine!! i immediately turned the car off not wanting to turn it back on....

i looked at similar posts but my only querys would be that its the AFM, or could it be the fact that since the car was sitting for ages the 98 octance fuel i put in it went bad and has clogged the fuel injectors+ throttle body? also my biggest question... why the hell is my engine shaking? IMMEDIATE HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

thanks.

There is your answer. You didn't put a pipe back on properly and it has most likely blown off.

This explains it wanting to stall, this explains the fuel being dumped out the exhaust, the fact it woudn't accelerate etc

From a guess it will be on the intake side where it goes to the 90 degree join through the passenger side hole in the engine bay. Common place for it to blow off and quite hard to notice.

Edited by PM-R33

second update: i guess it dosent matter but just figured for your own interest none of you were on the money, it really was simply just shit fuel, changed it out put a new filter plus hoses and the car works perfectly. but thanks for your inputs

second update: i guess it dosent matter but just figured for your own interest none of you were on the money, it really was simply just shit fuel, changed it out put a new filter plus hoses and the car works perfectly. but thanks for your inputs

lol typical, its usually always one of the basic things a engine requires which everyone seems to overlook.

lol typical, its usually always one of the basic things a engine requires which everyone seems to overlook.

yeh thats tru man but its good cause then you look at all possible aspects so like i said, i say cheers =), yeh i knowww hey i duno why the fuel was bad does 98 octance being so pure go shit quicker? ehhh it was hell nice pooring like $80 on the sand =( haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...