Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

pictures are a little close for me to tell how bad they are but id say the 1st you can buf out with a good clay and a substance like QUIXX SCRATCH REMOVER or if not to deep use Meguiar's ScratchX.

for scratch 2 you could use touch up paint from a car shop i think repco has little tubes of touch up paint like a nail polish tube for small scratches, since its down under the bumper you can use the brush from these to touch up the scratch and then once dried use a polish to buff it out and smooth it

from what i can see your paint is gloss black so a gloss black would work just dont use 2 much cus then it will seem obvious

your other option for both would be a car repair shop witch wil charge you about $600 for a full respray but take note the more you do this the more chips will look more obvious as once resanded and resprayed the new paint will chip easier, ask any panel beater and they will confirm

gibbo, try carmate.com.au for aftermarket

u may need a local shop to work on getting it to fit perfectly as i heard their kits arn't 100% flush fitment.

otherwise the yahoo japan auctions have plenty of parts

  • 2 weeks later...
your other option for both would be a car repair shop witch wil charge you about $600 for a full respray but take note the more you do this the more chips will look more obvious as once resanded and resprayed the new paint will chip easier, ask any panel beater and they will confirm

this is your best option. If they do it properly, it shouldnt chip easier.. They will need to use a fine sand paper to take the gloss off the whole bumper. Then patch the damaged parts with a tiny bit of bog or putty if necessary. Sand over the bog. Prime over the bog. Sand over the prime and then repaint the whole thing.

It shouldnt chip off easier if you pay $600 for it... Id be pissed if it did for that much.. Put it this way materials cost about $100 if that.. and its about 1 day labour.

used the quixx scratch repair....it didnt even take the lightest scratch off, completely useless

if the scratch is not to deep eg not reached the primer you can fix it using products like Quixx if its deep then you need a touch up paint pen

make sure you follow the instructions provided properly and you may even need to repeat the process a few times

found these instructions on their site :

Preparation:

Wash area to be applied to remove dirt and grease. Read instructions carefully. Test product on small concealed area first.

A. For MINOR scratches (e.g. car wash):

Apply QUIXX Finish (No. 2) to the scratched area. Polish it with a clean cotton cloth in a circular motion applying some pressure to a mirror finish.

B. For normal scratches:

Step 1: Apply QUIXX Repair Polish (No. 1) to the scratched area and polish it for about 1-2 minutes with a clean cotton cloth in a circular motion applying pressure. Remove residues with a damp cloth.

Step 2: Polish the worked areas and any matt patches with QUIXX Finish (No. 2) to a mirror finish.

C. For deep scratches (e.g. scrapes):

First wet-sand the scratched area gently with little pressure for about 10 sec. by using the enclosed special sandpaper (grain 3000) with water. CAUTION: Do not remove all paint or clear coat! Do not expose primer! Follow steps 1 and 2.

D. For extremely deep scratches (exposed primer) and stone impacts:

In this case, first use a suitable color corrective paint (touch-up paint pen)

and let it dry for about 1 week. Follow the steps in C).

WARNING: Use according to instructions! Not suitable for extremely deep scratches exposing primer. If primer is exposed, first use a suitable colour corrective paint

it all depents how deep your scratch is but

let me know how it goes btw where did you get yours from?

got it from ebay...

gave it a go... honestly i think MAYBE it helped a little bit for the big scratches but i suppose it was never gonna do much on them... the little scratch it did jack all... probably wouldn't recommend

mjay can you link me your ebay purchase page - i think i might of gotten the from the same seller ,im suspecting i got a duped one maybe fake or lesser quality if you and i got from same seller.

on another note has anyone used scrach x 2.0 from meguairs? if so thoughts and exp with it??

Edited by ezy03
mjay can you link me your ebay purchase page - i think i might of gotten the from the same seller ,im suspecting i got a duped one maybe fake or lesser quality if you and i got from same seller.

on another note has anyone used scrach x 2.0 from meguairs? if so thoughts and exp with it??

boought it off ebay seller "High_Series"

i dont think mine was fake... honestly i jus think that the product is not really effective on scratches beyond the lightest scratch... i'm getting my car detailed by dr detail this week though so i didn't put too much effort in tryna get em out... i figure if he can't then i'll just touch up paint it

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Mjay,

Not sure if you've fixed your car scratches. Sometimes it's worth getting the experts to do the job for you. I had great results with a local Sydney Northern Beaches mobile repairer. If you live in the local area you might want to try http://www.sydneymobilepaintrepair.com.au Certainly wont try the quixx scratch repair as you said it was useless.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...