Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Since Ive had my Skyline R33 GTST S2 (few months now),the indicators are just not responding whatsoever when i flick the stalk left or right.

The previous owner of the car did have neons around under the car but then ripped them out and left the loose wires so i have since pulled them out.

The car does have an aftermarket alarm system if it should have anything to do with it....

I have checked the indicator fuse but it is all good,the only thing i can think of is the indicator relay (where ever it is) or a bad earth.Also i have replaced the stalk but still no good..hazards are working tho.

It has been troubling me since i bought it,can anyone please help me?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339886-no-indicators/
Share on other sites

Is a rwc a Road Worthy Certificate?

If it is,i didnt get actually get a road worthy certificate with the car because it was yellow stickered because it has a huge dent on the rear quarter panel hence me buying it so cheap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339886-no-indicators/#findComment-5488871
Share on other sites

other than checking the relay it has to be related to the wiring... do you know if they were working prior to neons being removed? if so start from the wiring with that.

an auto elec should be able to sort that out for you fast and cheap, doesn't sound like a huge problem.

good luck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339886-no-indicators/#findComment-5489377
Share on other sites

Yeah the hazards work fine,the indicator lights and that work when theyre on its just when i switch it at the stalk it dosnt work.

I'm pretty sure the indicators didnt work prior to the neons being removed.

What would i be expecting to pay if i took it down to a auto eletrician?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339886-no-indicators/#findComment-5490352
Share on other sites

It'll help if we knew where you were.

And even ask in your own state's subforum if someone there can help out as a sparkie.

The problem seems to be at the stalk.

^+1

If the hazards work, you've eliminated alot already. And the second hand stalk could still be the problem. A dodgy hazard switch can cause no indicators as the hazard switch over-rides the indicators. Also, to find your flasher relay, turn the hazards on and follow the noise. I'd be looking for a wiring problem between the stalk and the hazard if everything you've posted is true.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339886-no-indicators/#findComment-5499812
Share on other sites

The guy who i bought the second hand stalk of said the indicators were working prior to him removing it.

blk94r33, i do think i have a dodgy hazard switch,when i push the button the hazrds don't stay on because the button pops straight back out,thanks for the suggestion ill have a look at it today.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339886-no-indicators/#findComment-5499895
Share on other sites

The guy who i bought the second hand stalk of said the indicators were working prior to him removing it.

blk94r33, i do think i have a dodgy hazard switch,when i push the button the hazrds don't stay on because the button pops straight back out,thanks for the suggestion ill have a look at it today.

Yup. Hazard switch +11ty. As I said, the hazard switch is designed to over-ride the indicators, is it's faulty it'll still over-ride the indicators, causing them not to work, and yours is faulty if the button won't stay on.

1. Get second hand hazard switch. (Check before purchase it works)

2. Fit second hand hazard switch. Fixed=go to step 3, not fixed go to step 4.

3. Drive car.

4. Check for problem in wiring between stalk, hazard switch, and flasher can. Still not fixed? Step 5.

5. Take car to auto elec or similar industry professional, as you've exhausted my vague-symptom-internet-diagnostics-capabilities, return to step 3.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339886-no-indicators/#findComment-5499926
Share on other sites

blk94r33 thank you soo much!! the faulty hazard switch WAS the cause of the problem.

The previous owner of the car removed the dash fascia and then removed the the hazard switch and every thing else to paint it.

When he screwed the switch back into the fascia he did it a little too tight therefore causing the switch to pop back out when you pushed it and that caused the indicators not to work.

Thanks everyone else for your help :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339886-no-indicators/#findComment-5500582
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...